1107095799 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Xiaobin from Cordova, TN
- Parts Used:
- W10820036
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
One day, I found my dryer continued running after I opened the door. And next day, it stopped working at all. I thought it was time to buy a new one, since my dryer had been used for more than 15 years. But I was curious to know what went wrong, and recalled my friend told me he repaired the door
My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.
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- Customer:
- Mandie from Lewisville, NC
- Parts Used:
- W10820036
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washer will agitate, but won't spin
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.
I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.
The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.
After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.
Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.
The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.
After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.
Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
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- Customer:
- John from Midland, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10120998
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
seal for lint filter came off
Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter
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- Customer:
- Lynne from Jamestown, CA
- Parts Used:
- 279570
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Door catch on dryer door broke
PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might contact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.
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- Customer:
- Kim K from Hurst, TX
- Parts Used:
- 279640
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Dryer would not turn
My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you
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- Customer:
- Mike from Gainesville, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP3405281
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer wouldn't stay started after button was pushed.
Removed the back of the dryer panel and replaced the relay that was not working. The dryer then worked for the next weekend of laundry then the dryer did the same thing at the end of our chores. I then pulled the panel back off and found the control pane (eend heat control) was burned up. I ended up buying a new dryer , a different brand of course, the next weekend. I want to thank your site for all the help. I otherwise would have spent much more on a repairman on items I did/could do myself.
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- Customer:
- PHILIP from LONG ISLAND CITY, NY
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Time clock not moving .Not enough heat
Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.
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- Customer:
- Brad from Odessa, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP3390719
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Thermal fuse was bad.
Did an Ohm test on the old Thermal Fuse found it to be bad. Replaced it with a new and the dryer is back to working great. Your suggestions saved approximatley $150.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Duarte, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10120998
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dryer gasket detached from screen
Received in two days, open box, installed part. Pretty easy, fast service. I'm a repeat customer and will use these guys in the future.
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- Customer:
- Richard from SAUGERTIES, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10837240
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer made a terrible screeching noise when tumbling.
I followed the repair Vedic and took the drum out and replaced the pulls and bracket. Very straightforward job. Dryer is now as quite as the first day we bought it.
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- Customer:
- David from PINETOWN, NC
- Parts Used:
- W10120998
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lint has been bypassing the lint filter and building up in the fan (and duct)
I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.
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Burner would not go on on my Stack Set Dryer
Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!
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The Dryer would not get hot.
I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.
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The dryer was not fully drying
After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.
Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.
Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.
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dryer not heating up
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!
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