11069101991 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Followed simple instructions to replace two pulleys and belt. The Virtual Repairman helped me identify the cause in minutes. Took another 5 minutes to place the order and the part arrived two days later. Saved $125 at least. Thank you!

john

Removed 2 screws in the lint filter and popped off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Slid the drum off and set aside. Replaced support rollers. Placed the belt over the drum and placed the drum back in the dryer. Wound the belt over the tensioner and motor pulley. Turned the drum to keep seal from folding up. Replaced front and top.

Tip: Use bungee cord or rope to hold top up and out of the way while doing this job.

Took a bit to first figure out how to get the front of the dryer off in order to access the motor, wheels, and belt, but found a "how-to" online. Once I had that, the rest was easy.

Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

Super easy to repair...I had to idea how to get started; but after watching the video from your site it was a breeze. Thanks for having "how to repair" videos on your site.

Repair kit came in 2 days..fantastic..thank you so much....with new rollers, belt and tension roller she works like new

removed the back of the dryer and the thermal fuse and the dryer cycling thermostat were right next replace them and the dryer work like new my dryer is 40 years old and saved a ton of money fixing it myself

Unscrew the lintfilter opening, lift the upper plate, open the front panel and lower panel. Take the broken belt out and insert the new belt. Close everything and start the dryer. That’s it.

Purchased the dryer maintenqance repair kit. Very simple to do. Easy to follow instructions. Took less than an hour. Everything I needed was in th kit. Did not have to run to home depot for anything.

Unplug dryer from mains. Remove the back of the dryer. Thermal fuse is located on the left hand side near the bottom as you face the back of the dryer. Remove fuse and connect new fuse. Never repaired an appliance before and this was so easy!

First, let me say the t videos are excellent. Check them out if you haven't already.

I came across the video on diagnosing the causes of odd dryer noises. After watching that, I decided that the issue was probably a drum roller.

I took a chance and ordered the maintenance kit to avoid having to take the dryer part to confirm the diagnosis and then put it back together again while waiting for the parts to arrive (BTW - the parts arrived within two days of my ordering them) .

Even if you know your issue is only the roller, I recommend getting the entire kit. It takes no extra time to replace the drive belt and the idler pulley while you have to dryer apart and I consider it good preventative maintenance.

Definitely watch the how-to video PartSelect provides on how to perform the repair using the maintenance kit. It's very clear and very helpful. I'm not sure I could have figured out how the belt fit through the idler pulley without it.

As video shows, the repair is pretty straightforward. As others have noted, you'll likely find a couple of dollars in change and a goodly layer of lint in the bottom of the cabinet. Have your shop back handy.

It seems kind of silly, but I found the hardest part of the whole repair was getting the front panel to slide onto the two bottom clips that support it.

One thing to watch out for are two small metal clips surrounding the screw holes at the top of the front panel. The nut screws that hold the panel in place screw into these, not the panel itself. After I struggled to get the panel in place I realized that in the process I had knocked the clips off and so had to remove the front panel again in order to retrieve the clips from the bottom of the cabinet. Minor frustration. And with all the practice I had the first time around, the panel went on much more easily the second time :-)

It was very gratifying to plug the dryer in, turn it on and have it run perfectly. Better yet, it impressed my wife.

The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.

Removed the 2 screws from the top dryer vent. popped the top off from the front, removed the 2 screws holding the door switch in place and went in reverse and checked. A OK

First I had to take the top of the dryer off by taking the two screws off of the lint trap on top then I pushed the top forward a little and lifted up. Then I had to take the front of the dryer off (I think there was two screws). After that I had to take the belt off to be able to get the drum out. I pulled off the old seal and had to use some glue remover to get the old glue off. I then put the new seal on did a little bit at a time to make sure it was on correctly. The glue is really sticky once it starts to dry. It takes two people to put the seal on especially when it gets down to the end. Although my dryer defenitly needed a new seal it was not the problem. It was not very difficult at all, just more time consuming with trying to get the old glue off. Will be buying a new motor, found one cheap and alot less expensive than buying a new dryer considering when I am done I will pretty much have a new dryer for about $120.00.

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Next I removed the dryer vent hose and threw it away and replaced it with a more rigid metal vent hose. Next, I used a socket wrench to removed the screws holding on the back cover of the dryer. Once the back cover was off it was just a matter of using the socket wrench to removed the bolt holding the sensor in place. After the part was removed I made sure the replacement was orientated in the same way as the original part and then I unplugged the wires from the bad sensor and placed them in the same order on the new part and then I bolted the new sensor back in place. Since the new part has been installed the dryer is working flawlessly and is not turning off mid-cycle like it was. ***Oh, and an important reminder. When you have the back cover pulled off the dryer use a shop vacuum to suck out any dirt and lint in the back of the dryer and make sure you unbolt the metal chute that the dryer lint screen goes into and clean inside the area near the exhaust blower. This is a VERY IMPORTANT part of servicing your dryer and should be done every few months to help avoid the risk of a fire.****

1) Unplug power cable from dryer.
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes