1106518740 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

This was rather easy to fix. I had never opened the dryer before but had a serviceman come out so I knew that you can pop the top of the dryer off by putting a flat edge screwdriver in between the top and bottom and popping up. You must remove the screws from the lint dryer before so the top comes off. The piece to replace had two screws and that was it. To get a repairmen from Sxxrs where we purchased it 15 years ago they charge a flat fee of $75 just to come out. That does not include the repair just a fee to come and tell you how much more it would cost to fix it. I ordered the part for less than $5 and $12 more for 2-3 day delivery! What a bargin! I was back drying clothes 15 minutes after the part arrived! Very happy that the part is still being made!

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

I reviewed several videos on parts sites and YouTube. There is more than enough advice online showing step-by-step instructions. The only difficulty came with the rear nut holding the motor shaft to the blower fan. I used a crescent wrench with a long pipe over it for added torque. The two spring clips holding the motor in place can be removed and installed with the help of a nutdriver pushing the clip down, . The dryer was new enough so the motor needed no switch changes. The new motor is running fine.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

I watched the part select you tube video that links specific loud dryer noises to specific broken or loose parts. It allowed me to identify the part I needed, which I ordered through their website. Two days later, I had the part and installed it, with help from another online video that showed me how to take the dryer apart to install the drum support roller. Thank you, the information provided made the repair quite easy. It works perfectly now!

Used the video to remove the top and front. Removed the drum. Removed the spindle through the whole next to the spindle. Vacuumed a ton of lint in the dryer and vent pipe. Reassembled in reverse order. Easy repair and a good time to clean the lint.

After checking out the website and the videos posted to YouTube, I decided that I should take a chance and try and repair the problem myself. I am not in any way mechanical, and for me personally, this was a huge job. The instructions and the video were so clear that it made the job easy. Taking out the dryer drum was a concern, and although not heavy, I used a friend to hold it in place when I was putting it back together. My only small issue was when I was removing the rollers. I had some difficulty taking off the plastic locking washers but other than that, it was a breeze. The videos posted are great and very easy to follow. While doing the above job, I also replaced the dryer belt and heating element, both of which I followed instructions as per video. The dryer is running very smooth, and is the quietest it has been for many years. Very happy with all aspects of service advice and videos.

This model you cannot lift the top lid without breaking it. Removed the exhaust hose and back of dryer. vacuum out the dryer and hose to remove the excess lint. Remove screws from the lint guard mounting. Loosen and remove 4 screws that hold the lint guard in place. The seal at the base of this assembly was missing the seal around the discharges fan. Remove seal with putty knife. Use a small brass wire brush to remove as much as you can. Vacuum area. Reinstall the lint guard assembly, start at the top, gently life and push assembly up and in. You should be able to determine how far. Start the bottom 4 screws, tight them. Check fit. Then put the screw back in on the lint guard on the top of dryer. Once you have completed this connect exhaust hose. Start dryer, check the dryer exhaust vent that is outside. If the flow is good, WELL DONE!

Recommendation: Check this assembly by removing the back of the dryer approximately every 6 mos. for lint build up. Not doing this may increase the risk of fire.

Attributed excessive noise to age of dryer, upon closer inspection, a dish towel had become caught at rear of drum because the drum support rollers were damaged causing the drum to create a space in the rear of the drum. This was large enough for the dish towel to be caught. Originally I thought that the thermal fuse had blown the circuit-which should occur in an overheating situation-however the loose drum had worn through the electrical wire leading to the door switch because it was not properly seated on the rear drum rollers. the wire was repaired with a wire nut, rear drum rollers were installed and it is working again. thank you for the extremely fast shipping

Took of the btm pan and the top to be able to remove the front. Raised the drum enough to replace the right hand wheel. ( the old ones had already been removed) Replace the left hand wheel and bracket. Re assemble the machine. Worst part was trying to do all this with the can of beer in one hand!!

I diagnosed the problem, as a broken arm on the actuator for the door shut switch. I jumped the switch, and dryer worked. I went to this site, found the part I needed, ordered it/received it quickly, and proceeded to do the repair. The video that THIS particular part goes for, isn't' like MY dryer. My dryer hinges in the rear. You just remove the 2 screws on either side of the control panel, (right and left), pull forward on the panel, to ease its attachment, let it lie. Then with a small plastic pry tool, pop the 2 attaching points in the front of the dryer. Front end lifts up, like a hood on a car. My roommate held hood up, while I R&R'd the switch actuator. Went back together, in reverse of my taking apart. Worked great. Thanks a bunch.