11092824102 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I removed all of the screws on the inside of the door. Unfortunately, I found out that I only needed to remove four of the screws after the glass fell out of the door. After re-installing the glass and removing the correct four screrws, I figured out that I had to pry off the plastic face plate to get to the two screws that held on the handle. After removing these screws, I was able to get the broken handle out and the new handle in. I then reinstalled the plastic face plate and replaced the four screws that held it in place.

The repair was done by following the instructions on this website. I'm a 68 yr old female who has surprised myself by finding the part I needed, ordering it and did the repair all by myself. My son was at the house and said he would do it for me and I told him I wanted to try myself first and if I needed assistance I would let him know. He showed me where the Phillips screw drivers were and chose the correct size and then proceeded to take off the 4 small Phillips screws on the door and the 2 at the bottom of the door under the window area. Then I removed the panel and the broken handle and replaced with the new one. Then put the panel back on the door, screwed the 6 screws back where they belonged and the job was completed. I was so excited that I actually did the repair but best of all my son was proud of me for even attempting the project.

Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.

I replaced both the thermal fuse and the thermistor at the same time. That seemed to fix the problem; but after a couple of days the dryer would not start. When pushing the Hold to Start button, the dryer just gave one beep and would not start. I did a resistance test on the old thermal fuse, and it was OK; so I put the old thermal fuse back in and the dryer works. Evidently, it was just the thermistor (thermostat, internal bias) that was broken. Both are very easy to change.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Watched instructions, Ordered the kit and repair was fairly easy until the time to line up the cover over the fan wheel. That was difficult part. Would be best to have two people at this point to hold it and align the screw holes. Otherwise its was a fairly easy operation.

Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

Just replaced part

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

Checked this site for most likely needed parts and ordered. Located full repair manual inside unit after removing lid. Followed instructions in manual to take apart and remove the drum; took pictures at each removal step and used pill organizer to keep screws in correct order and quantity. The metal cylinder in the center of the idler pulley had ground away so the idler pulley with bracket was replaced. (There was a lot of metal dust that had to be cleaned.) One of the rollers did not turn smoothly so that was also replaced. After putting drum back in, reversed the steps to reassemble and referred to photos to make sure did in correct order and did not forget anything.

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

Note that the problem was with the pedestal, not the washing machine. In the process of attaching the two units together, the drawer in the pedestal is removed. When I tipped the assembly up, the slide slid out and locked horns with an object, bending the slide. The slide is an easy replacement. Just one screw holds it in place. A slot in the slide mates with a tab to hold the back side of the slide in place.

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.