11077680600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

i took the face off dryer and removed the belt and drum then removed the lint trap from back to clean and have access fan then removed the retaing clips holding the motor then with two adjustable wenches unscewed the motor from fan took out motor and replaced in reverse order all you needed was some common sence to do this i though it was easy to do greats parts fit perfect thanks tommy

I am a teacher and teaching is my game. I have always, with my four children, taught them to do mechanical work themselves. I and most of my children have a PhD, but in having said that, I confess, we come from a very mechanically talented family. It shows and proves to be of great benefit.
OK, so much for the intro.

I gave my daughter the tools and said, "What do you think is wrong with the dryer and where would you start?" She tested it and said, "The motor is running, but the tub is not turning thus I conclude it is the belt because I can hear the motor running eliminating that as a cause.

She then opened the top, looked around and removed two screws from the lint catcher. She looked it over, looked a me, I shrugged my shoulders and she then took a rubber hammer and popped the top off. Don't ask me how she knew that, but I think she saw the rubber pins through the crack between the case and top. She raised the top after removing two screws in back to relieve the simple hinge and also disconnected the wiring clip and sure enough, the broken belt was inside the cabinet. We called you, the best, fastest and most accurate service on the Internet and ordered a replacement. I would like to add, the price is always more than fair and delivery very prompt.

When the part came, my daughter took it up to our laundry room and within twenty minutes, she tested it and everything was fine. She did smell a little burning smell which might be attributed to a new belt or the fact that there was no clothing in the dryer.
Thank you so very much.
Dr Robert E McGinnis

I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!

Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

Took the old one out, replaced it with new one.

Timer knob.....took new knob out of protective shipping bag and installed it on the existing timer stem. It took less than one minute.

Door catch kit......removed original female latch part from dryer door and installed new one by pushing it in the hole left by the original part.

Followed the instruction given by previous writers in these post.
Hint The bungee cord hook was used to hold up the lid, worked very well.
If you are by yourself use duct tape to hold the drum in place before removing the front panel. Tape the top rear of the drum to the rear frame. Also do this when reassembling the front panel.
Easy and quick makes the wife happy this time.
PS. Ordered the parts on Sunday and had them on Tuesday.

After reading about repairs to the drum rollers, it was suggested to change the rear drum seal at the same time. The drum rollers were very easy to change and took no time at all. The rear seal was a different story. The instructions in the packet could have been more explicit. The seal has to be streched around the drum at first. Then and only then can you install the seal on the drum edge. You should also have several clamps available to hold the seal in place as you glue the outside flap. Leave the clamps in place until the glue dries, then re-install the drum.

Followed the video instructions to replace motor, belt, and rollers (belt and rollers looked to be in ok shape, but as long as I had the thing open I figured I might as well). Fairly straightforward procedure. Trickiest parts were getting the rear roller clips in place and re-attaching the rear motor spring clip. Probably could've found a used dryer of comparable quality for less, but this was easier and more satisfying than moving dryers in and out of the basement.

Removed back and then removed lint slide.
Vacuumed all of the cabinet and and washed lint chute.
Blower seal and lint seals were crumbling since dryer is 24
years old. Part Select diagrams and repair videos are extremely helpful in showing the process. Dryer now working like new.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

Opened up every panel EXCEPT the front, then discovered how easy that is. Replacement belt was a snap to install. I noticed some plastic collar thing on the driveshaft appeared to have melted. Did not appear to be critical part, so I put it together and tested it out. Seems to work fine. I think the collar is there to prevent the belt from potentially slipping off the driveshaft.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

I pried open the top of the dryer, removed the 2 scrws holding the front cover of the dryer, un hooked the dryer drum buide belt, removed the dryer drum - all this just to get to the drum support roller. The bottom roller - the rubber on the wheel had been "chewed of". I can only guess because too much weight was placed in the dryer with wet clothes.
I removed the triangle shaped retaining clip, using the mini flat head screw-driver, slid the damaged roller off, replaced the new roller, and installed the new retaining clip. To install the new clip, I used a 1/2inch nut driver. I did the same to replace the upper drum support roller. The actual repair took less than 5 minutes, However, the prep time in dismanteling the dryer in order to get to the drumm rollers and puting the dryer back to gether consumed the bulk of my time.