11069133411 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

followed the you tube video, came apart ok, very bad lint problem. Vacuummed out extensively. Made repairs, very straight forward. Back together ok, still noisy but not as bad. May be the fan.

watched u tube - how to disassemble dryer....put in new parts works perfectly.

Repair was fairly easy, lots of screws to remove but the instructions in the online repair manual were very clear. Lots of stuff to remove (top, front, drum, etc.) but not too challenging. Only tough thing was disconnecting one of the connectors on the electronics board, had to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the part to get them separated. Once I had it all apart it was very easy to replace the wheels and the belt. Putting it back together was easier than taking it apart.

1. Disconnect power cord and remove flexible duct. 2. Tilt dryer back and lean against wall, using folded towel to prevent wall damage. 3. Remove front/bottom panel - 4 screws on front/bottom of dryer. 4. Make alignment marks on internal vent duct where it attaches to vent bottom duct housing. Remove internal vent duct screw (towards front/top of duct) and slide vent duct out back of dryer (duct has to be removed to remove back panel) 5. Remove top panel (4 screws on back/top). 6. Remove AC power terminal block from back panel, disconnecting wire that restricts free movement of terminal block. Remove power cord from terminal block (3 nuts). Remove back panel (many screws). 7. From rear of dryer, gain access to idler pulley spring arm. Carefully note how belt routes around motor pulley and idler pulley (maybe record an image). Release belt from idler pulley. 8. Remove idler pulley triangle retainer (if still on pulley shaft) and remove old pulley. 9. Thoroughly vacuum lint and dust from all areas of dryer, internal duct, flexible duct and duct in wall (as far as possible) while dryer is in disassembled state. 10. Thoroughly clean idler pulley shaft of deposits with cloth. If desired, add very small amount of Park Tools Polylube 1000 to the cleaned shaft. 11. Install new washer, idler pulley and triangle retainer to shaft. 12. Re-route belt around pulley in original orientation. 13. Reassemble rear panel to dryer, terminal block to rear panel, and power cable and internal wire to terminal block. 14. Reassemble top cover to dryer. 15. Insert internal duct back into front vent duct, aligning guide marks, and secure with the one screw. 16. Plug unit in and briefly test, then unplug. 17. Again, tilt dryer against wall and reinstall front/bottom panel and screws. 18. Install flexible duct, plug in power cord and position unit for operation.

Had to unstack the unit took it apart and replace the rollers,Belt and Idler Pulley It was the pulley making the noise but I had it a part and for the cost I replace the rollers and the Belt the Job was easy The Washer and Dryer are Great we run about 2 Loads a Day

My way of replacing the pulley was much faster than the parts select video that showed how to replace the belt tension-er pulley. They took off the door, the entire front AND the drum to get to the pulley. I ACCESSED THE PULLEY BY REMOVING THE 4 INCH EXHAUST PIPE, (ONE SCREW) WHICH GAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH OPENING TO REPLACE THE NEARBY PULLEY! I suggest you remake that video

Our dryer got so loud after running for a few minutes that you couldn't even have a conversation in the same room. After researching for possible causes, I decided to go with new drum wheels. I purchased the Dryer Repair Kit to save a little money and it gave me a new belt and tension wheel as well (since I was going to have it apart anyways). After taking everything apart and vacuuming out all the lint from inside, I noticed that the blower wheel was broken. No idea how that happens but something must have gotten in there and broke 2-3 fins and cracked the rear side. I replaced the parts that came with the kit and proceeded to put it all back together. Started it up and it was worse than before. Quickly ordered the new blower wheel and that fixed the problem. Back to a "quiet" dryer. I probably didn't need the Kit after all, but the drum wheels were a little worn and I had it apart anyway.

Called a appliance place. They said it was a serious problem with master board and it was gonna cost 425.00 dollars. NO THANKS. Ten minutes to open ten minutes to find the problem. ( which was no were near the master board). Seconds to find and order the parts on partselect.com. got it next day. 15 to 30 minutes later my dryers running like it was brand new! Love it.

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

I removed the back of the dryer and then unscrewed the thermostat and fuse from the heating element shield and replaced with new ones. I simply reattached the back and did a test drying run. Good news, no overheating. Easy-Peasy

Thank you for your part service. It saved me about $ 200.00 dollars by Sears not coming out to repair a simple problem.

Watched a brief video on YouTube and followed step by step. Real easy.

Took the back dryer cover off and removed the lint cover all from the back of the dryer then replaces the Thermistor (held with 2 screws).

I highly recommend the videos on this site for repair information. It wasn't exact for the age/model of my dryer but very close. Remove the top panel and then the control panel. Remove the lower front panel and finally the door and main front panel. Unloop the belt from the motor and remove the drum. I found one of the drum rollers was bad, which was causing my problem, but I replace all 4 rollers, the belt, and the idler wheel. Sounds like it did when it was new! Find the video for your model and watch it!!