11069133411 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

My husband changed the idler pulley. It took him 5 min. Thank you sooooooooooo much. Saved us 1000.00 dollars. He wanted to by a new one but investigated the problem on line. He is a handyman and was just being lazy. I ordered the part and he fixed it. I love saving money!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I love my husband!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I replace the terminal block, wires , and dryer plug I unscrewed the back of the dryer and basically replace was burnt out. I was about to pay 200.00 to have it done but I looked on youtube and seen how easy it was so I just chose the site to order what I needed to be replace and it arrived quickly and more affordable to do it myself. Thanks I hope the was useful.

UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!!! Removed back cover. Make sure to note not all screws hold the back cover by closely observing the screw. Take a picture of the belt routing before removing from the idler pulley. Use headlamp or flashlight to light up pulley area. Remove belt from idler pulley by pushing idler assembly towards the right. Use small screwdriver to remove the existing pulley by prying off the existing tri-ring from the back of the pulley. You may have to "feel" the ring since it in facing away from you. Once tri-ring is removed, slide off old pulley and gasket or old second tri-ring. Replace with gasket first, then pulley then tri-ring. Reroute belt. Use picture if needed. Replace back cover.

Took the back dryer cover off and removed the lint cover all from the back of the dryer then replaces the Thermistor (held with 2 screws).

Took off front bottom panel reached in removed part that was very dusty. Put in new part. Cleaned out lint inside dryer. Works like a charm.

The videos really make it easy. I put my laptop on the washer next to my dryer and proceeded step by step. I also found the video that mentioned about the screws that may come loose on the baffles. I found several loose screws on the baffles which I tightened and I also found the Drum hole plug loose, so I also tightened the plug. Reassembled the unit and has been working like new since.

The tear down on the dryer was more difficult than the instructions and internet showed due to different models used. The kit was not identical to the original parts but close enough to work (I think). The biggest issue we had was getting the drum back in and placed on the wheels where it would turn easily. Overall the repair came together but it was a bit more involved and we anticipated going into the project. The actual noises were caused by the disintegration of the tensioner wheel which broke and was wobbling on the axel.

Ordered the fuse first hoping it was just that simple, watched the video for how to replace, first step was to take the back of the dryer off, well I order to take the back off I had to take off the Electrical Cord, as well as he top of the dryer. Only to find out he part I was replacing was not back there. Found the tech sheet attached within he dryer though, and as it turns out only needed to take he front bottom panel off. Without testing he continuity I was just giving this a shot, the Thermal fuse did no fix it, so I tried the high Limit Thermostat and Fuse kit still no luck. Took out the Element to find I was physically cracked in 2 pieces, replaced that and I was back up and running. And all parts were found in the bottom front panel of the dryer, so beware before you watch the video and take our whole dryer apart like I did.

Once I watched a YouTube video showing me how to do the job I ordered the part from you. Am so impressed with your fast shipping and best prices via the Internet. Thank you SO much! The water level switch was easy to install, it ws getting the cover on the washer back on that was hard for me since I am 68 yrs old and have a bad knee. Its why it took me two hours to do what most people could do in 20 minutes.

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

watched u tube - how to disassemble dryer....put in new parts works perfectly.

Repair was fairly easy, lots of screws to remove but the instructions in the online repair manual were very clear. Lots of stuff to remove (top, front, drum, etc.) but not too challenging. Only tough thing was disconnecting one of the connectors on the electronics board, had to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the part to get them separated. Once I had it all apart it was very easy to replace the wheels and the belt. Putting it back together was easier than taking it apart.

1. Disconnect power cord and remove flexible duct. 2. Tilt dryer back and lean against wall, using folded towel to prevent wall damage. 3. Remove front/bottom panel - 4 screws on front/bottom of dryer. 4. Make alignment marks on internal vent duct where it attaches to vent bottom duct housing. Remove internal vent duct screw (towards front/top of duct) and slide vent duct out back of dryer (duct has to be removed to remove back panel) 5. Remove top panel (4 screws on back/top). 6. Remove AC power terminal block from back panel, disconnecting wire that restricts free movement of terminal block. Remove power cord from terminal block (3 nuts). Remove back panel (many screws). 7. From rear of dryer, gain access to idler pulley spring arm. Carefully note how belt routes around motor pulley and idler pulley (maybe record an image). Release belt from idler pulley. 8. Remove idler pulley triangle retainer (if still on pulley shaft) and remove old pulley. 9. Thoroughly vacuum lint and dust from all areas of dryer, internal duct, flexible duct and duct in wall (as far as possible) while dryer is in disassembled state. 10. Thoroughly clean idler pulley shaft of deposits with cloth. If desired, add very small amount of Park Tools Polylube 1000 to the cleaned shaft. 11. Install new washer, idler pulley and triangle retainer to shaft. 12. Re-route belt around pulley in original orientation. 13. Reassemble rear panel to dryer, terminal block to rear panel, and power cable and internal wire to terminal block. 14. Reassemble top cover to dryer. 15. Insert internal duct back into front vent duct, aligning guide marks, and secure with the one screw. 16. Plug unit in and briefly test, then unplug. 17. Again, tilt dryer against wall and reinstall front/bottom panel and screws. 18. Install flexible duct, plug in power cord and position unit for operation.

Had to unstack the unit took it apart and replace the rollers,Belt and Idler Pulley It was the pulley making the noise but I had it a part and for the cost I replace the rollers and the Belt the Job was easy The Washer and Dryer are Great we run about 2 Loads a Day