11079132412 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Replaced the belt and the wheels supplied with the kit. I also cleaned the inside of the unit. It looks and works like new.

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

First, I watched a utube video of replacing the dryer belt. Then I went to Sears Hardware and couldn't find a part. Then I ordered the parts for my favorite online repair parts source - partselect.com. I had the part in one day! We did exactly what the video showed and also replaced the two wheels that looked like roller blade wheels. Piece of cake. Saved a $75 repair call plus whatever the parts would have been and spent about 20 minutes doing it. Back in business. Great for a 12 year old dryer! Buy the dryer kit!

I looked for squeaky dryer within parts select and went with the 80%. I received the Maintenance Kit, replaced two rollers and it works like new. Amazing since this is the first time I have ever opened a dryer. The instruction sheet and parts were all I needed.

I'm still waiting on my idler pulley. It arrived at Fed EX depot in Tracy CA on December 14th and has still not been shipped. So it is pretty fucking hard for me to install it! Maybe if you had customer service that would answer their phones or reply to my Emails would be helpful

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Removed the two screws under the lint trap
Opened the top (had to use flathead screwdriver to release latches)
Disconnected door switch harness from front panel
Removed 2 screws holding front panel on dryer
Lifted out dryer drum (previous belt had broken)
Vacuumed inside of dryer (found $3 in quarters!)
Put new belt around drum
Put drum back in dryer, using empty laundry soap bottle to support its weight
Looped belt around pulley and motor; secured pulley to dryer bottom
Made sure rear gasket thingy was aligned properly and drum turned freely
Put front panel back on
Re-attached door switch
Closed top and put screws back in under lint trap
Fired it up - WOOHOO!

I raised the top of the dryer, removed the front, the belt and the drum. Slipped off old rollers, installed new ones and new tensioner. Reinstalled drum and belt, bolted front back on and closed the top.

Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.

Just follow the instructions the one was provided with Maitanace kit we bought from you.

Removed the plastic guard. Snapped the catch in place and replaced the guard

Used the screwdriver pressed the blade against the edge of the door catch and popped it out. Put the new door catch in place and pressed it and it snapped into place. Done

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!