11079133412 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Lubricated pulley wheel which temporary reduced noise. This verified what was making noise. Looked up the part on partselect.com and ordered it. Recieved idler pulley with bracket in just a few days.
Quickly removed back panel using nut driver with drill. Slipped belt off pulley, removed one screw with plyers to released spring and removed old assembly.
Inserted new assembly, connected spring, slipped belt back on roller.
Tested before replacing back panel.
All was very quiet. Replaced back panel.
All done

Unscrewed the inside part of the door from the outside door shell. Removed the broken pieces of the catch and replaced it with the new one. Screw the door back together. Did not need to remove the door from the dryer cabinet.

Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.

Turn off electric to unit.
Remove lint trap.
Remove lower cover below dryer door. 1 grey clip on either side. Bend upper portion of the clip down while pulling forward on panel.
Remove 4 1/4 inch bolts that hold blower duct to fan.
Push pulley upward while removing belt.
Use a small angled pick to remove pulley lock ring.
Install new washer and pulley. I added grease to pulley shaft.
Hope this helped. Good luck

My son did the repairs it took less than 30 minutes it's an old dryer so glad to be able to get the parts. I do not like the new dryers because of all the pushbuttons thanks so much for the ports

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.

Very easy repair... The video was really helpful too. I was able to find a different video that was closer to our model. (Front Loader HE) It probably took me a little longer than needed but I took the time to shop-vac everywhere I could, since it was all easy to get to. I opted for next day shipping so the shipping charges were more than the part. Tools I used were: Cordless drill-screw driver, 1/4in. socket, Phillips head bit and needle nose pliers for the control panel connections. Thank you again for making this so easy. Saved us a lot money by not calling an appliance repair tech.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

flipped up the top pulled the front off easy access to drum removed the drum replaced rollers per instructions that came with package. very eas job. works great.

Opened the cabinet and removed the drum. Cleaned out the dryer fuzz. found that the roller stabilizer wasn't in place; apparently due to a previous repair. Replace both rollers and the roller stabilizer and prepared to replace the drum. But because I live alone, I didn't have anyone to hold the drum while I connected the belt to the motor. But, I did have three unused balloons which I partially inflated and set the drum on them in the bottom of the cabinet while I hooked up the belt to the motor. Put everything back together and it is now drying my clothes again. :)

Took back panel off, and it was really easy putting the new idler pulley in.

pull the back off and replace the pulley.

Disassemble dry. Put on new pulley wheel. Greased pulley wheel. Put dryer back together. Works great. Yours truly G.B.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.