11075202310 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I pried open the top of the dryer, removed the 2 scrws holding the front cover of the dryer, un hooked the dryer drum buide belt, removed the dryer drum - all this just to get to the drum support roller. The bottom roller - the rubber on the wheel had been "chewed of". I can only guess because too much weight was placed in the dryer with wet clothes.
I removed the triangle shaped retaining clip, using the mini flat head screw-driver, slid the damaged roller off, replaced the new roller, and installed the new retaining clip. To install the new clip, I used a 1/2inch nut driver. I did the same to replace the upper drum support roller. The actual repair took less than 5 minutes, However, the prep time in dismanteling the dryer in order to get to the drumm rollers and puting the dryer back to gether consumed the bulk of my time.

Opened up every panel EXCEPT the front, then discovered how easy that is. Replacement belt was a snap to install. I noticed some plastic collar thing on the driveshaft appeared to have melted. Did not appear to be critical part, so I put it together and tested it out. Seems to work fine. I think the collar is there to prevent the belt from potentially slipping off the driveshaft.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

When i finally got sick and tired of hearing it when she used the dryer. I popped the top flipped it up unscrewed the 2 screws holding the front panel of the body on, picked up on it and pulled it off the drum. I then reached back to the rear right corner and stretched the tentioner and pulled the belt off the motor pulley.Then I picked up the belt and the drum and pulled it out of the dryer body. After seeing the drum support roller that is mounted on the base, and back of the left side I decided to go online and find this sight that had the drum support rollers as a set with the keepers and the push nut for the brace as a set for a really fair price. If your unit has a warranty "do not" take anything apart and do not order any pats until you check with your dealer. You do not want to void your warranty. I then pulled off the push nut and then i took the screw that held on the brace in front of the worn out drum roller, then pryed off the keeper and pull off the drum roller, took off the back keeper;inspect the shaft if it is not damaged ,(this one was not),then you wait until the parts arrive, yes your dryer will set in parts for about a week, but believe me in todays economy its worth "not having to buy a new dryer" at least for this small repair. When the parts arrive everything is pretty much in reverse of how you took it apart dont forget your cell phone is also a camera that can be a "memory enhancer" for when you get this far. Also be nice to your wife your going to need a little help putting it back together. Of course if she wants her dryer back she needs to help anyways. patience is a virtue and if you dont take your time and do this right it will be tested the drum and belt need to be fitted right and held up to get both the belt on the pulley and around the tentioner and get the front panel lined up on the front of the drum good luck and pass your knowledge on its getting to be a lost art.

Unplug the machine. Take off back panel and remove heater assembly. Since I was already into the heating system, I replaced the heating element as well ($30). I replaced the old thermal cut off and overtemp, put the wires back on the connectors, reassembled, and the dryer works like it did when brand new! Within 30 minutes the repair was completed. Still saving for a new front loader washer/dryer, so the repair will hold us until we have enough to buy new. Alos, helped us to need to dry clothes on a clothes rack in the house. Good practice and lesson for the entire family!

I never received my part checked back after said hearing part had been shipped was told part was no longer available have called twice about my refund and not received that either

Took apart front of cabinet, set aside. Undid the belt drive. Removed the drum. Noticed rear seal was with large gap where it wore away, causing the lint to leak onto the interior of cabinet. Ordered a new seal, removed old seal, prepped for new seal. Used spring clamp to hold new one on place. Applied the glue to hold seal in place waited 24 hrs to dry. Reinstalled drum, put cabinet back together. Plugged in ran whisper guiet.

Removed back and then removed lint slide.
Vacuumed all of the cabinet and and washed lint chute.
Blower seal and lint seals were crumbling since dryer is 24
years old. Part Select diagrams and repair videos are extremely helpful in showing the process. Dryer now working like new.

Followed the video instructions to replace motor, belt, and rollers (belt and rollers looked to be in ok shape, but as long as I had the thing open I figured I might as well). Fairly straightforward procedure. Trickiest parts were getting the rear roller clips in place and re-attaching the rear motor spring clip. Probably could've found a used dryer of comparable quality for less, but this was easier and more satisfying than moving dryers in and out of the basement.

1. Popped off hinged dryer lid at front and supported to allow access to lint chute
2. Removed back sheet metal panel
3. Removed dryer chute to expose sensor; removed same-deformed terminal on top needs to be straightened with pliers to remove through slot.
4. Installed new sensor; terminal needs to be twisted to ensure solid installation and good ground. Bottom pops in but took a bit of finagling.

Accessing and replacing the sensor was straightforward enough; bulk of the job was cleaning off old gasket material (severely degraded) in two locations. Used plastic scraper and razor blade scraper, then cleaned sticky with goo gone. Installed new gasket strip from Home Depot; available in rolls. I used 1/4" x 3/8". Surprising how much lint/hair/debris was in bottom of lint chute. Glad to get it all clean.

Step 1: Unplug the unit, then remove the lint screen and then remove the two screws beneath the lint screen cover. Step 2: At the rear of the dryer there is a small protective metal panel near the upper part of the dryer - remove this first; then at the front of the unit, insert a plastic pry tool between the front edge of the top and the front panel of the dryer and gently pry the top loose. Step 3: Lift the dryer top up and either remove it entirely or let it rest on the back edge and a wall for support. Step 4: On the inside of each side panel near the top front, locate the two screws holding the sides of the dryer to the front panel and remove them. Step 5: Carefully slide the front panel up so that the panel detaches from two metal clips holding the front panel onto the side panels. The drum will likely drop down slightly at this point since it is no longer being supported at the front. Step 6: On the front panel there is a wire that connects the front panel door switch. I left that intact because it was too difficult to remove without risk of breaking it and instead simply set the front panel to the side of the dryer - but if possible remove disconnect the wire and then set the front panel aside. Step 7: Remove the drum by pulling it out, inspect the back felt seal for wear and also the plastic split ring bearings at the front end. When you remove the drum belt the tensioner pulley underneath the drum will likely fall over, but this is to be expected because without the belt and drum providing tension, the piece only fits loosely in a slot at the bottom of the dryer. Step 8: Inspect the drum rollers, motor, and other parts for wear, then vacuum out the inevitable lint and dust inside the unit. Step 9: At this point I also decided to inspect and clean out the lint chute at the back of the unit, so I removed the protective back cover and removed the screws holding the lint chute in place. I then cleaned out the lint that builds up over time inside the chute and checked the two foam lint chute seals at the back of the unit - these needed replacing so I removed the old deteriorated foam and vacuumed off the back of the unit and then adhered the new seals to the back of the dryer. Step 10: Take the new multi-rib belt and drape it around the drum with the ribbed side against the drum - you will likely see a mark around the drum where the old belt was positioned, so use that as a guide. Step 11: Since one of the split ring bearings on my unit was worn, I replaced both at this time by simply pressing the plastic tabs out of the slots at the front of the drum, removed each half of the ring, and reinstalled the new parts - they only correctly fit one way so that the plastic edge lines up cleanly with the front edge of the drum. Step 12: With the felt drum seal toward the back replace the drum - I used a small box to support the drum upon while I reinstalled the drum - this will make it much easier to manipulate the belt around the tensioner and motor. At this point I reached underneath the drum and reinstalled the tensioner. by positioning it in the two small slots near at the bottom panel that are near the front of the dryer motor. Then take the belt and pull it through the tensioner and around the motor pulley at the front of the unit. You will likely have to push up slightly on the drum and tensioner to allow the belt to be pulled through the tensioner and around the motor pulley. Step 13: Rotate the drum slowly by hand at least one full revolution and check to see that the felt seal at the back is not pinched and that the belt does not fall off the pulley. Step 14: I removed the box supporting the bottom of the drum, then took the front panel and fit the front of the drum against it so that the split ring bearing matched up to the front panel. Step 15: The drum will still be somewhat loose and that allowed me to carefully lift the front panel up and then slide it down back onto the two metal clips that hold the front panel to the side panels. Step 16: Reinstall the two screws that also hold the front panel to the side panels. And if you also removed the wire connection to the dryer door, reattach that too. Step 17: If you removed the lint chute, reinstall it from the back while the lid is still off so that it is easier to slide it into position. Step 18: Reattach the top of the unit by seating it against the top of the frame (of course if you disconnected wires, reattach those too) and reinstalling the two screws underneath the lint screen cover. Step 19: Reattach the rear panel cover and small protective metal panel. Step 20: Reattach the flex-hose to the lint exhaust.

Ordered the motor with pulley and blower wheel in case the wheel did not come free from the motor.
Took out the lint screen, took off the top and disconnected the wires for the door switch, took off the front.
Remove the idler poi and the belt and then removed the drum.
I read in other repair YouTube videos, the blower wheel sometimes is so seized onto the motor axle that you have to remove the wheel by cutting it off.
Yes, ours seized!
Cut off the motor axle with a hacksaw and then the motor and the wheel were free. This was not an issue since I had purchased both the motor and the wheel which I recommend doing anyway. Our dryer over 25 years old and it does not have many electrical components, which I love. We removed the parts put in the new parts. Follow the wiring diagram to get the new motor hooked up.
Then I replaced the drum support rollers, which were a snap and then we put it all back together.
We added an extra step because we had to takeoff the back of the dryer to gain access to the blower. It turned out to be a good thing since years of lint have been trapped at the bottom of the lint chute.
I cleaned everything, washed everything and put it all back together and it purrs like a kitten.
Took us about 2 1/2 hours total since we are very cautious and slow as we didn’t want to break things.
I am very happy with the end result and hopefully it will last another 25 years!
Parts were spot on and worked perfectly.
Much more economical than buying a new dryer for $750-$1000.

The repair was no problem. Just taking off the hex screws removing the crimp wire and replace the parts in the kit and the old dryer came back to life again.

Thanks

Removed old door switch and tested with ohms meter. It registered as charged, but when black button was pushed it did not cut off (go to zero). Replaced the part just like the video showed. Only problem i had was dropping my screwdriver down into the dryer well. It was doing no harm so i left it there since i tried retrieving from the back but was not able to get entire back off!

watched your video on 'how to' and did it like man showed..no problem