11076132411 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I removed the part located on the dryer at the top of the door area. I installed the new part with the two screws I removed and BAZINGA...it all worked again. Very pleased!

My husband simply changed the switch and now I could'nt be happier. Thank you for sending the switch so quickly!

Very simple. First, unplug the dryer. Unscrew the 2 screws that hold the lint screen in place and remove the lint screen. Now comes the only complicated part. The video recommends using a putty knife to get the top of the dryer to open. I recommend plastic wedges (you can buy one for less than $1 at a local hardware store; I used 2) because then you will not damage the aluminum, which is very easy to do. Basically you put the wedges (I used two) into the opening and hit then very gently with a hammer and they force the top of the dryer to open. From there you remove the 2 screws that hold the switch in place, unplug the switch (this may take a little bit of effort), plug the new one in, put the screws back in place, put the top back on, screw the lint screen screws back in, put the lint screen back, plug the dryer in and you're good to go. This took all of 10 minutes

After reading on line that the door switch fixed the described problem 48% of the time I decided to order a door switch first. Very easy to follow the video instructions that were on line. In less than 15 minutes my dryer was working again.

Follow the vid it is perfect. The vid came with an email from your company.

Once I had determined that the door switch was broken (the black actuating arm was broken) I ordered a replacement. The procedure to replace it is the reverse of removal of the broken part: unplug the appliance to begin. There are 2 screws that hold the filter frame to the top of the dryer; these are removed and set aside for reuse. The top of the dryer can now be pulled up to gain access to the door switch. Make sure you leave enough space behind the dryer to prop the top up without letting it go backwards. Disconnect the wiring harness plug for the door switch and the unscrew the switch. There are 2 screws accessed from the upper right corner of the open door. Replace the switch, guiding the 2 screws into the mounting holes of the part, remembering to not over torque the screws, connect the wiring harness, close the lid, replace the 2 filter housing screws, plug the dryer back in to the electrical outlet and you should be good to go.

When I ordered the part over the phone was told it just snaps in. Not sure what it meant. Parts delivery was prompt. Looked at the part and it’s pisition on the dryer.And it really was very simple.

ordered a replacement handle - installed it myswelf

I followed the accurate video. I'm sure I saved a lot of money over having a repair man come out. Now maybe my wife will believe that I am capable of repairing some things myself... eh, probably not.

Took old one out and put new one in. Popped the top off and took out two screws. That was it.

The videos on replacing the switch mentioned using a putty knife to pop the top of the dryer open. My dryer is around 10 years old, so a putty knife wasn't strong enough to pop the dryer top off of the clips. Instead, I had to gently stick a flat head screwdriver and twist just to the side of each clip. Other than that, the video instructions were spot-on on for replacing the switch: UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST > remove the lint collector > remove the two screws from the top of the lint collector's slot with a Phillips screwdriver > pop the top of the dryer up gently with a flat head screwdriver (or a putty knife, if that works for you) > remove the two screws holding the switch onto the front of the dryer (it would be good to notate which direction the switch is pointing) > use a flat head screwdriver to pry the faulty switch's clip off of the dryer's wiring harness clip. Then reverse the procedure with the new switch: plug the new switch into the dryer's wiring harness > screw the new switch into the slot on the front of the dryer, making sure that it's oriented in the correct direction with the switch's arm pointing away from the dryer > lower the top of the dryer back down and press it onto the clips > screw the screws back into the lint collection slot > replace the lint collector > plug the dryer back in > test the dryer.

Followed the video and it was perfect. Easy repair that took under 15 minutes. Great, clear process that was perfectly easy.

I followed the you tube instructions. Unplugged the dryer. Removed the lint screen. Unscrewed 2 screws. Used puttty knife to open the top of dryer. Located the door switch and unplugged it and replaced with new part. Closed top. Replaced two screws and put lint filter back in. Plugged dryer in and turned it on. It worked like new. I'm a woman and this is second part I've had to replace on this dryer. Watch you tube video.

The repair was simple. The plug must be pried away from the connection with a pocket knife or small flathead scew driver.

An online video provided perfect instructions. Unplug the dryer. Remove the Lint filter and see two Phillips screws located on the top of the machine, then remove the screws. Then slide a stiff, thin putty knife under the right front corner between the top and the front panel. The clip inside has small feet holding it in place, so you need to angle the putty knife up slightly, then push in towards the back of the dryer while lifting up on the top. The corner will lift away from the front. Repeat the process on the other front corner. Now lift up the top that is hinged at the rear. I used a 24" 1 x 2 board to keep the top up. Open the front door and remove the two screws that hold the switch in place then unplug the switch on the inside of the dryer and remove. Plug in the new switch (2 or 3 wires may be present, but it doesn't matter). Attach the new switch using the two screws you removed. Lower the lid and tap each front corner to reengage the clips, then put the two screws back in at the lint filter. Replace the filter, plug the dryer back in, and you're done. I honestly think that it took longer to type these instructions than it took to do the actual repair.