11065202310 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

put the high limit in , plus the temperature , plus the exhaust switches

I followed disassembly directions found on youtube and replaced th two-piece ring bearing that was identified by a parts diagra fron PartSelect. The repair was easy. Fix time was about thirty mionutes.

removed the back housing of the dryer and located the thermal switch. unscrewed the old one, popped in the new one and whala! I was back in business!

put the back cover back on the dryer and pushed it back into place.

first i removed the back cover by removing the six 1/4 inch screws then i removed the wires to the thermal switch there were three of them and using an ohm meter i checked each one for continuity until i found the one that had an open circuit. i removed the two 1/4 inch screws holding it in place and replaced it with the new one.

Read this site and saw many fixed the problem with a new thermostat. Ordered one and it was simple to replace. Just removed the back panel of the dryer and the thermostat is right there. Two screws to remove it, swap the four wiring plugs onto the new one, reinstall it. Unfortunately that didn't fix it so went back online and ordered the coil kit, another common solution. Removed front of dryer by removing the two screws the hold the lint trap onto the top and the two hinge plate screws on back of dryer to tilt the top up ward and backward. Removed two mounting screws on inside of dryer front and slip front panel upward to remove. The coils are right in the front down at the bottom left of dryer.Used an offset screwdriver to remove the two screws holding them in place. They slide right out, one has two prongs, one has three. Replace them with the new coils and put them back in place. Reassembled and everything works now. Grand total of eight screws removed and replaced, pretty simple. I'd recommend buying two or three parts if you see several parts as possibilities for a repair. Easier than doing it the dummy way like I did!

It went as I expected opened the back with the nutdriver about 6 screws. And the element waste right infront detached the wires and pulled it out cut myself on the sharp edge but not to bad the only trouble I had was getting the thermostat off the old element

Thank goodness for the video!!! Really helped. Removed screws from back, loosened wires and screws on old element. Toughest part was getting thermostat off of old element. Video mentioned screws, my unit was attached via a metal tab. Took some figuring to get it apart and not damage thermostat. Getting new unit into venting was tight fit - had to fit juuuuuusst right. Re-attach screws, plug it in to test - hot air. Reassembly no problem. I am not a real handy guy so for me to say this was easy means it was really easy.

I unplugged the machine and removed the back panel with a 1/4" socket. I unplugged each thermostat in turn and pulled them out. The internal bias was a bit tricky to remove without breaking the tabs or wires. I then placed each thermostat back in and replaced all the wires. Not bad at all. Weird thing is the dryer heats just fine now, until I put the back panel on; once I replace the back panel, it will not heat.

Took my VOM and did a continuity test on the heating coil and thermos switch. Heating coil was open

The replacement was SUPER easy, and way cheaper than a new dryer. Many people will buy a new dryer rather than mess with the hassle of a part. The biggest hassle of this part was the size confinement of the space. Other than that, I feel like I have a brand new dryer!

i took a stab that it was the thermostat,but it wasn't.after finding out it was the coils i purchased them and lifted the top of the dryer and undid two screws in the upper front of the dryer and lifted the front off all while holding the tub in place.The coils are located in the very front left of the dryer,i took the holder bracket off,disconnected the wires and replaced the coils(they just sit on a rod)dryer works like new and thanks to the new thermostat also gets hotter,i'm guessing that was next.

Unplugged the unit, removed the back panel of the dryer and then removed the thermostat panel. Disconnected the wires on the thermostat and changed out the thermostat.

Bought the heater element and was fortunate to see a video of "how to" replace. Was quite straight forward really. Just needed a 1/4 inch socket...with preferably an extension to take off the back of the dryer. the only thing that was a little different in real life from the video was taking off the thermostat from the heater element. I used a screwdriver to bend the metal fork back so I could remove it. Other than that, I was done in 40 minutes.

Attributed excessive noise to age of dryer, upon closer inspection, a dish towel had become caught at rear of drum because the drum support rollers were damaged causing the drum to create a space in the rear of the drum. This was large enough for the dish towel to be caught. Originally I thought that the thermal fuse had blown the circuit-which should occur in an overheating situation-however the loose drum had worn through the electrical wire leading to the door switch because it was not properly seated on the rear drum rollers. the wire was repaired with a wire nut, rear drum rollers were installed and it is working again. thank you for the extremely fast shipping

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.