110C68132410 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Took the back dryer cover off and removed the lint cover all from the back of the dryer then replaces the Thermistor (held with 2 screws).

Removed existing parts and replaced with new high limit thermostat and thermal fuse kit,replaced flue and tested. Worked like a charm.

Thank you for your part service. It saved me about $ 200.00 dollars by Sears not coming out to repair a simple problem.

I removed the back of the dryer and then unscrewed the thermostat and fuse from the heating element shield and replaced with new ones. I simply reattached the back and did a test drying run. Good news, no overheating. Easy-Peasy

Called a appliance place. They said it was a serious problem with master board and it was gonna cost 425.00 dollars. NO THANKS. Ten minutes to open ten minutes to find the problem. ( which was no were near the master board). Seconds to find and order the parts on partselect.com. got it next day. 15 to 30 minutes later my dryers running like it was brand new! Love it.

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.

Had previously replaced the heater coil (purchased from PartSelect) and fixed the no heat problem. Should have taken advice given on this site and replace the thermostat and thermal fuse kit at that time. Since I knew how to remove the assembly it was easier this time. Just remove, unscrew the two parts and replace with the new ones. Reattach the wires and reinstall the assembly and it is now working again. Also vacumed the inside and trimed and replaced the exhast vent hookup for less restriction.

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!!! Removed back cover. Make sure to note not all screws hold the back cover by closely observing the screw. Take a picture of the belt routing before removing from the idler pulley. Use headlamp or flashlight to light up pulley area. Remove belt from idler pulley by pushing idler assembly towards the right. Use small screwdriver to remove the existing pulley by prying off the existing tri-ring from the back of the pulley. You may have to "feel" the ring since it in facing away from you. Once tri-ring is removed, slide off old pulley and gasket or old second tri-ring. Replace with gasket first, then pulley then tri-ring. Reroute belt. Use picture if needed. Replace back cover.

We did repair by first watching a you tube video, then jumping in an dgoing step by step through the video. While not exactly the same dryer, the steps were in sequence. We thoroughly sleaned out the dryer with the tub out before reassembly. Th eonly slightly tricky part was putting front piece back, but once we mad esure ot align the sides for squareness the dryer went back together smoothly, execpt for one dropped screw. that was fished out through the bottom panel. The dryer runs quietly and we can watch TV with the door open to the laundry room again. I should have done this a long time ago. It started out by sqeaking at startup, then grew worse over time. I recomend anyone with a friend should be able to do this. Now with Cell phone pictures it is even easier to remember where the screw go.

Once I watched a YouTube video showing me how to do the job I ordered the part from you. Am so impressed with your fast shipping and best prices via the Internet. Thank you SO much! The water level switch was easy to install, it ws getting the cover on the washer back on that was hard for me since I am 68 yrs old and have a bad knee. Its why it took me two hours to do what most people could do in 20 minutes.

1. Disconnect power cord and remove flexible duct. 2. Tilt dryer back and lean against wall, using folded towel to prevent wall damage. 3. Remove front/bottom panel - 4 screws on front/bottom of dryer. 4. Make alignment marks on internal vent duct where it attaches to vent bottom duct housing. Remove internal vent duct screw (towards front/top of duct) and slide vent duct out back of dryer (duct has to be removed to remove back panel) 5. Remove top panel (4 screws on back/top). 6. Remove AC power terminal block from back panel, disconnecting wire that restricts free movement of terminal block. Remove power cord from terminal block (3 nuts). Remove back panel (many screws). 7. From rear of dryer, gain access to idler pulley spring arm. Carefully note how belt routes around motor pulley and idler pulley (maybe record an image). Release belt from idler pulley. 8. Remove idler pulley triangle retainer (if still on pulley shaft) and remove old pulley. 9. Thoroughly vacuum lint and dust from all areas of dryer, internal duct, flexible duct and duct in wall (as far as possible) while dryer is in disassembled state. 10. Thoroughly clean idler pulley shaft of deposits with cloth. If desired, add very small amount of Park Tools Polylube 1000 to the cleaned shaft. 11. Install new washer, idler pulley and triangle retainer to shaft. 12. Re-route belt around pulley in original orientation. 13. Reassemble rear panel to dryer, terminal block to rear panel, and power cable and internal wire to terminal block. 14. Reassemble top cover to dryer. 15. Insert internal duct back into front vent duct, aligning guide marks, and secure with the one screw. 16. Plug unit in and briefly test, then unplug. 17. Again, tilt dryer against wall and reinstall front/bottom panel and screws. 18. Install flexible duct, plug in power cord and position unit for operation.

My way of replacing the pulley was much faster than the parts select video that showed how to replace the belt tension-er pulley. They took off the door, the entire front AND the drum to get to the pulley. I ACCESSED THE PULLEY BY REMOVING THE 4 INCH EXHAUST PIPE, (ONE SCREW) WHICH GAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH OPENING TO REPLACE THE NEARBY PULLEY! I suggest you remake that video