110C65132411 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First, removed the bottom cover below the dryer door. This is just held on with two clips that can be pushed in with a flat screw driver. Then remove the springs that go from the bottom of the dryer to the inside of the dryer door. We had to remove the entire front of the dryer, so the easiest way we found was to loosen the two screws on the bottom of the front panel, but not remove them. Then pop up the top of the dryer. To lift the top, first remove the two screws under the little door where the lint trap goes. The top is hinged in the back, and it snaps down onto two clips that can easily be popped up with a flat screw driver) With the top opened, there are two screws accessible. When the front of the dryer is removed, there will be nothing to support the drum, so what we found was that if you rotate the drum, you'll find a point where there's a hole in the top of the drum. If you take the springs that you removed from the bottom of the door you can hook them into this hole, and hook the other end into a hole in the back wall of the dryer just behind the drum. The springs are the perfect size for this, and it keeps the drum from falling when you remove the front panel. then just disconnect the three wires going to the switch inside the front panel, and remove the two screws from the top of the front panel. It should then lift right off. The bearing can just be pulled away and the new one installed. Put everything together again in reverse order.

My dryer was running way too hot and the temperature settings didn't make any difference. Clothes were shrinking and coming out almost scalding hot. I followed simple directions posted on you tube for troubleshooting this problem. I checked that there were no lint blockages, visually inspected all connections and hardware. All seemed good. Metered out all thermostats and fuses. Everything checked good for continuity. For the reset-able thermostats, I heated them on a hot plate to verify that the normally closed switches opened near their specified temperatures. Dont do this for the non-resetable fuses and thermostats. If you're
not sure, avoid this step. Only the hi-limit thermostat seemed to open a little higher than expected but I couldn't with 100% accuracy determine the exact temp it opened. Made sure the heating element wasn't shorted in its housing or that too might give the dryer the same symptoms. That checked good too. Only thing left I could think of was to change that hi-limit thermostat. Ordered part, removed and replaced. Perfect fit. Op-checked good. All heat settings now operate normally. No more shrunken clothes that are too hot to touch even on the lowest setting lol. Hope this helps, happy hunting.

Went to the site for instructions. Received a nice set of three photos with detailed instruction. Very easy to follow and item just snapped in. If I hadn't looked up the instructions I would have probably risked breaking the new part.

Removed 2 screws in the lint filter and popped off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Slid the drum off and set aside. Replaced support rollers. Placed the belt over the drum and placed the drum back in the dryer. Wound the belt over the tensioner and motor pulley. Turned the drum to keep seal from folding up. Replaced front and top.

Tip: Use bungee cord or rope to hold top up and out of the way while doing this job.

1 screw to replace.

lined up the holes and pushed. 2 second repair.

The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

We pulled the back off the dryer and we weren't sure where the problem was exactly. So we pulled off the heating element and the thermostat. The heating element seemed to be burnt out, so we ordered that and the thermostat. We got the parts very quickly, so we put them in and found that the dryer still didn't heat. There was another thermostat (trip thermostat) that we decided to order and try...bingo...that was it. Now it works like a charm.

Be very careful of burrs on the edges of the steel inside the dryer. I cut myself badly when reaching into unplug the switch.
Procedure: Lifted the dryer top by pulling forward and rotating front up. Removed 2 philips screws holding the switch at the door. Reached into dryer and unplugged bad switch. Inserting small blade screw driver at the edge helped release the plugs detent. Installed new switch using reverse of above.

Pulled the dryer away from the wall took back cover off the dryer. Used volt/ohm meter to identify the bad element. Ordered the element it came in two days. 2 screws and 2 wires to plug in and we were back to drying cloths

Un plug or remove power before you start. First you would have to remove the rear panel of the dryer. All you need is a quarter inch nut driver. Then look at the bottom right side of the dryer. There you will see the heating duct. At the very bottom is where the element is. There are two screws on both sides( they will all be removed with a quarter inch nutdriver ). After you have removed the four screws holding the element on you will have to remove two wires from the elemet be sure that you mark them and dont mix them up. You will also have to remove the round temperature sensor because you will have to reinstall it on the new element. Then you get new element and reverse the order of my directions. Good luck and be safe ALL WAYS REMOVE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES.

Easy, just snapped it

thought the heating element was bad, once inside the element
looked good, tested continuity , tested good.
further test revealed I only had 110 volts at the wall outlet,traced problem to fuse blown in disconnect box under
the house.
Did not need the heating element.luckily parts select is taking the new element back since I did not use it.
Hope this review helps.

I knew that the dryer needed a new belt and since the dryer was also failing to dry the clothes in one cycle, I decided to replace the three thermostats, figuring that I might as well do all three if I'm going to open up the dryer. I downloaded a schematic of the dryer from the Whirlpool web site, which helped me to order the right parts and see how I would be able to make the repairs. Once I figured out how to get to the drum for the belt replacement, installation was quite easy.

First step was to unplug the dryer, remove the vent hose and remove the back panel with a nut driver. Once the back panel was removed, it was easy to see all three sensors. The heating element unit was easy to remove - two screws. This made it easier to replace the sensor. Each sensor was shaped differently, making it easier to decide what went where. This normally would not have been a problem, but the part numbers have changed for this dryer. I could have also cross referenced the parts by using the partselect.com web site.

To access the dryer drum, I had to remove two screws on the back of the dryer that are located in two tabs that hold the control panel to the dryer cabinet. Once removed, it was easy to lift the top of the cabinet and swing it up and against a nearby wall for support while I replaced the belt.
I removed the old belt from the motor pulley, and then just removed the whole drum. I placed the new belt around the drum, placed the drum back in position. With my wife supporting the drum, it was easy to bring the belt through a guide and slip over the motor pulley. Then, I rotated the drum manually to make sure the belt wasn't twisted.

After ten minutes of putting everything back together, it was time to plug in the dryer and test it. I did it without a load first and checked the vent for hot air. After that, we did a couple of loads...one on high and one on perma press, and when the cycle was over, the clothes were dry!

Delivery time from PartSelect was super fast! Prices are excellent, and I really appreciate such a helpful web site. Anyone with a small amount of mechanical ability and "do it yourself" experience can save $$$ by fixing it yourself. Having someone service this dryer would have cost me more just to replace the belt.....let alone the added insurance of replacing the sensors. And, I learned that if the heating element should fail, replacing it would be a snap, and would start with a visit toe partselect.com!