110C68012011 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.

Disassembled dryer. That was the hard part. Figuring out how to get the top off the dryer so I could get the drum out took the most time. The end caps on the control panel had to be removed by forcing them outward to release the plastic catches. Then the bottom corner screws were removed to allow the panel to swing up out of the way. The top panel could now be removed. To gain access to the belt and tensioner the blower and ducting off the front of the motor had to be removed to remove the belt. Now the drum was able to be lifted out. The motor swap was a cinch with no wiring modifications required. Reassembly was the reverse, with the most difficult thing being tightening up the blower fan. This required putting a wrench on the belt end of motor shaft and holding it while reaching thru a narrow gap on top of the fan ducting.

A) Watched video of repair on site.B) Looked around for competitive prices and decided on PartSelect because of original parts, price, and 1 year guarantee.C) Proceeded to take dryer apart like video showed. Error was my dryer front panel has two screws covering the heater box and that was all I needed to remove and replace heater instead of dismantling the back. Good news though was, I removed all the lint build up in the machine so not a waste of time. Be sure not to touch the new heater wire coils as oil from your hands will destroy the heater prematurely. Heater was original Whirlpool ! I'm a happy camper.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Drum belt broke. Found drive shaft belt guide broke. Replaced pulley wheel since I had it apart.

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

replaced dryer lint screen with new.

Noticed the door switch was loose and the light bulb inside dryer didn't stay on. Researched the problem on PartSelect. Followed the directions given: Take 2 screws out of top of lint trap. Pry top off of dryer with putty knife. Unscrew 2 screws in dryer door frame holding in old switch. Uplug and remove old switch. Plug in new switch and put screws back in. Close top of dryer. Reinsert 2 screws in lint trap. My 20 yearn old dryer works!

I just followed the instructions from this site for the door switch part and had it running in 10 minuets. This site made it very easy.

Remove the lint screen, then remove the two (2) Phillips screws that are at the entrance of the lint screen compartment. Take a putty knife and insert it under the top pannel of the dryer about 1” in from the outside and push the putty knife in as you lift that corner of the pannel. Repeat on the other side. Then raise the lid and prop it up. The door switch is on the right side just behind the door on the inside. Open the door and remove the two screws that hold the switch and remove the switch. Install the new switch like the old one came out and close it up you’re ready to go! It is very easy you can’t hurt anything.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )