110C68012011 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

Drum belt broke. Found drive shaft belt guide broke. Replaced pulley wheel since I had it apart.

Disassembled dryer. That was the hard part. Figuring out how to get the top off the dryer so I could get the drum out took the most time. The end caps on the control panel had to be removed by forcing them outward to release the plastic catches. Then the bottom corner screws were removed to allow the panel to swing up out of the way. The top panel could now be removed. To gain access to the belt and tensioner the blower and ducting off the front of the motor had to be removed to remove the belt. Now the drum was able to be lifted out. The motor swap was a cinch with no wiring modifications required. Reassembly was the reverse, with the most difficult thing being tightening up the blower fan. This required putting a wrench on the belt end of motor shaft and holding it while reaching thru a narrow gap on top of the fan ducting.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

A) Watched video of repair on site.B) Looked around for competitive prices and decided on PartSelect because of original parts, price, and 1 year guarantee.C) Proceeded to take dryer apart like video showed. Error was my dryer front panel has two screws covering the heater box and that was all I needed to remove and replace heater instead of dismantling the back. Good news though was, I removed all the lint build up in the machine so not a waste of time. Be sure not to touch the new heater wire coils as oil from your hands will destroy the heater prematurely. Heater was original Whirlpool ! I'm a happy camper.

replacing the heating element was difficult due to the small area to work with and the defective element was difficult to slide out from housing.

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.

1. Didn't understand how to do continuity test for 3-wire door switch. After looking that up, I discovered that wasn't the problem ! I have tested, the thermal fuse, oscillating fuse,start switch, I've tested the timer and the black , blue connections go to zero ( continuity good) the tan , white connections just barely off of infinity. I've ordered a new timer. I'll let you know if that's the problem. If you can more diagnostic videos. AKH

I just followed the instruction in the video, step by step. Easy as pie. Took out the screws, raised the top, unplugged the switch, took it out, put the new one in. Then reversed the process and put it all back together. Of course, always unplug the dryer from the wall plug before you do anything. The light bulb wasn't bad and came back on when I replaced the door switch. Now I have a replacement if it goes out.

Watched video & took my time. It went easy

There are many good youtube Kenmore/Whirlpool door switch replacement demos online. The one already done by this site )was close enough for me. I could see that the door switch on my dryer was bad (the plastic part that the door makes contact with was visibly broken, as seen from the outside) -- so I ordered a new one. You don't have to open the top fully to access the switch wiring harness -- i propped it open with a roll of duct tape, The hardest part for me was to disconnect the old switch from the harness (I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to free it). Be careful, the metal inside the opened dryer is sharp, and can cut you.

The video was very good and completely accurate. I pulled the dryer away from the wall, being careful to avoid disconnecting the flexible vent tube. Then I disconnected the electrical cord from the wall socket. Next, I removed the two Phillips screws located beneath the removable lint filter screen. One of the two top front release clips disconnected easily by the use of a small blade screw driver, rather then using the recommended putty knife. The other clip was somewhat more resistant, but finally released and I lifted the top of the dryer back, resting it on the wall cabinet. I then noticed that the two small screws attaching the dryer door switch were actually accessed from the underside, which prevented my accidental dropping of them, and/or the screwdriver into the interior of the dryer, as had been done by one of your previous customers. So, I opened the dryer door and removed the screws. I delayed the disconnection of the wiring connector from the old switch, also preventing the accidental dropping of the switch into the bottom of the dryer when I removed the two attaching screws. I had no difficulty with disconnecting the wiring connector, as was experienced by some of the previous customers. Next, I carefully attached the new switch to the electrical connector, again prior to re-installing the two connector screws, also avoiding the accidental dropping of the new switch into the bottom of the dryer. I had also ordered a replacement Door Latch packet, planning to replace this part when I replaced the door switch. However, when I had originally ordered the new parts I had not noticed the video which is provided showing this procedure. I quickly realized that the female portion of the latch, which is located in the dryer door, was not removable without first removing a couple of screws to allow a partial disassembly of the door to allow for releasing the tangs restraining the socket. Therefore, I decided to replace the door latch later when/if it failed. I then attached the bag containing the replacement latch parts to the inside of the dryer for installation at a later time.