11086578810 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..

Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.

I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.

Prop up the hood of the dryer with flat bar. Take out 2 screws holding dryer front end and 2 switch screws for dryer light inside dryer door. Secure dryer drum with bungee cord. Lift front end and remove. Remove broken belt. Route new belt over drum and pass underneatch idler pulley at botttom of dryer. Apply pressure to idler pulley w/one hand while securing belt around motor with the other. Make sure drum seals are snug between front and back of dryer while putting everything back together.
Have confidence. This is a very easy fix.

I order a new belt and I watched the video instructions on how to replace it, follow the instructions, removed the top and took out the dryer tumbler or can, found a broken idler pulley, order a new one, got it in about two days, replaced all the parts and now its working like a new dryer, I called several repair shops and I got estimates from $65 to $150, I spend less than $35 and it took me about 35 minutes to install and I got it fixed..

Looking at the schematics, it wasn't clear exactly where the motor was located. I took off the rear panel thinking I could get to the motor through the blower. Realizing that was a no-go, I did some web searching and found that the lint screen chute had to be unscrewed, the top had to be lifted to gain access to the top 2 screws holding the front panel to to the main body. The barrel was then dropped and the rib belt removed from around it so I could set it aside. The clips were removed from the front and the back of the motor to gain access to the blower shaft. .The motor shaft is screwed into the blower shaft but it took me a while to figure out how to grab the blower shaft( made of hardened plastic?) with an adjustable wrench while torquing the end of the shaft with a (3/4"?) socket wrench. Access to the rear was rough, but getting the motor out an back in was easy. The spring tensioner for the belt was the next hurdle. With the s-curve facing outward and clipped to the base, the belt with the rib side wrapped around the barrel, the belt was slid between the roller and the tensioner bracket and wrapped around the motor drive rib side inward. I had to take the old motor to kind of prop up the barrel so I could at least see the tensioner and motor interface. I had to do a balance trick where I held the barrel up while centering it to the belt and the rear panel while ensuring the cloth seal was seated to the outside of the chamber. The front panel went on, and the front cloth seal was seated by spinning the barrel. The rest was just a matter of reversing the steps. Tons of lint/dust is probably what crashed this motor. Disassembling the front and the back allowed a thorough clean up - vacuuming and wipe down. Should go another 10 years/

Lined the flat side of the knob with the timer stem and simply pushed it on.

Took off the lower front panel, removed duct piece from filter to blower fan, removed two screws and two wires to thermostat in exhaust ducting, then replaced thermostat with new one. Very easy job and everything worked like new when I reassembled it.

Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

Took the back cover off and WA-LA, a bad element. Went online to PartSelect.Com and ordered the part and my Mom was drying clothes again in lees than a week. Now, I am her favorite son again.

Safety First - I unplugged the power source. I removed the console by simply removing several screws. However because the nut fastening the resistor was in a really tight spot and I had little room to work, I decided to remove several screws from the back of the console to open it up. (This step is not necessary - but for me, it just made the job go quicker). I was then able to use my ratchet/socket set to remove the nut from the resistor. I then attached the wires from the timer to the new in-line resistor. I closed up the console, re-attached it to the dryer and DONE!!! The dryer works fine!!! By the way, the set is 25 years old. I initially thought it was the timer itself but after explaining the problem to Rebecca at this iste , she quickly identified the problem as the timer power resistor. Many thanks Rebecca??

UNPLUG THE DRYER!!!!!
First removed the two screws holding the lint filter in place. Then slipped a screw driver between the top and the dryer body to remove the top. Using a nut driver removed the two screws holding the front of the dryer in place, remove the two wires for the door switch., lift the front cover of the dryer and set it aside. Support the drum ( two extra hands would be nice) and remove the drive belt. Then remove the drum. A thorough cleaning to remove all of the scorch like stain from the drum and back plate. Remove the seal and glue the new one in its place. Put it back like you found it. Make sure that the seal is not tucked against the back plate. Dryer works better than new and no more stains.

I was reluctant to call a repair service. Typically when an appliance is as old as my dryer (14 years old), service people encourage you to replace, not repair. I had replaced the dryer's motor within the last 5 years and believed my dryer still had life to it. At first, I tried cleaning the lint build up from the dryer cavity and hoses. This worked but only for a couple of days. After reading other successful repair stories on the website, I decided to try replacing the thermal fuse. It was so easy. The part was easily identifiable. It was just a little hard to yank off the connecting wires. Good as new and no service call.

Do to age and heat the dryer door handle was brittle and broke. Ordering was easy on line. Part was delivered faster tan expected. Oh and the repair time, Less than 1-minute.

Thanks for the great service.

Watch the utube video a few times. Followed instructions. Marked all screws. Cleaned the inside of dryer where motor is. Replaced drum seal and then belt. I replaced front of dryer screwed everything in place and I did it. Holding drum in place while installing front of dryer was hard as it was heavy but I did it m. My friends and husband couldn’t believe it. Utube is great!