41794132002 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged the electricity, turned off the gas, then pop open the top of the dryer. Removed the two screws and pulled the front of the dryer off. Removed the two screws that locked down the two m series ignition coils. Put it back together and all things worked great.

as on the video. so easy. took longer to clean-up

After reading other peoples problems i decided it must be the coils after looking at the picture of the part I looked at the dryer to find were the part was. it was right in front behind the inspection cover. so i order the part. it came very fast.these are not the first parts i have purchased from Partselect.the web site is newer now and i am glad because reading other peoples problems help me decide what was wrong with mine.PS Always clean every thing inside the dryer!! 15-20 min job one screw driver! (19 year old unit works fine)thanks to Partselect!!!

My dryer was heating up very briefly blowing hot air initially then cool. I have a stacking washer/dryer set (2002). I initially turned off the gas valve at the wall, ran the dry for several minutes to clear the gas line, then unplugged the power. I was then able to pop the top using a flathead screw driver, securely prop it open, unhook the wiring harness to the front panel, unscrew the two front panel screws, and remove the entire front without having to unstack the units. From there, you remove the two screws holding the bracket over the coils (2 of them), remove the electrical connectors attached to both coils and replaced them with the new ones. I then replaced all brackets, screws, and such (you'll need to lift the drum when putting the front back on and make sure it is lined up), plugged it back into power and turned on the gas to test the unit which worked perfectly. The 62% of the time seems to be an accurate figure as nothing else had to be done to the unit. Pretty easy stuff...good luck.

Flame Sensor didn't fix it but, it was easy to replace. Unplug electric. Lift up the top and remove wires from switch and light switch. Remove screws that hold on the front and remove front panel by lifting up and out. Sensor is on the left side of the burner, held on with just one screw. EASY!

Took the coils off and put the new one on thats all

pushed screwdriver into the two clips between the top and front to release the connection. took off front. at the bottom front left side, took out screws to access parts that needed to be replaced. put everything back together. dryer works like new. easy.

Your website was very helpful in narrowing down and diaganosing the problem. A continuity tester verified an open solenoid. Ordered Sunday evening, parts arrived Tuesday. Ignition coils drop in place with a holddown bracket and one screw. Wiring harness is reattached. Front of dryer is put in place followed by the top. Plugged in the dryer (it is just commom sense to have the power off). Started dryer, of course it ran WITH heat. The end of the story is HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY LIFE. Happy to do business with you. Tom , MI

Removed the panel between the dryer and washer. The gas valve was right in front. The wires were in a plug and easy to remove from old part. The solinoid held in place by a clamp with two screws.

Ordered part received next day fast shipping was great part in and working thanks

i simply took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. it fit perfectly.

Remove 2 screws at the upper rear attached to the top panel. Slide panel rear back and remove. Remove 2 screws attached to the front control panel. Lift panel upward. Remove 4 screws attached to the front panel (2 at the top, under the control panel, two at the very bottom). Lift front panel up and off, and unplug connector to door switch. Remove some more screws on the internal front panel edges, and the front to back brace holding up the control board. Lift panel up and out, and remove the drum, too. Thermal limiter located toward the rear, attached to the heating vent tube. Disconnect and replace. Re-assemble in reverse order.

When I direct the dryer exhaust into the room during the winter there is an external lint filter in the ducting. For some reason,enough lint got by the dryers filter and over a few cycles clogged the exhaust. I correctly assumed that the dryer overheated and some thermal limiter had opened up. The manual had exploded views and I located the limiter. Getting to it was another issue. The manual gave nbo instructions on getting to the limiter, but I had installed a propane conversion kit when I first got the dryer. It was necessary to remove the top, control panel, and front panel/door assembly. Disconnecting the gas line,some cable connectors, and a few screws allowed the removale of the burner assembly, then removal of the metal tube that surrounded the burner assembly and held a number of sensors, including the thermal limit, which, as expected, showed an open circuit. The replacement part was ordered and checked out as a closed circuit, which it should. Reassembly was the reverse. A little difficult to work in the cramped lower corner of the dryer. I'm 82 years old now but machines cannot beat me!!

Remove top cover 2 screws then remove front panel 6 screws remove wire connecter on the door panel. ignition coil is on the bottom left side need a short hand srew driver remove 2 screws remove plate holding coils remove coils and connecter. Reinstall in reverse installation. Dryer still didnt heat up so back to the drawing board :)

Pried the lid up and flipped it back then disconnected the front panel wiring harness and then popped the front panel loose at the top and dropped it down. Disconnected the ignition coils, removed the coil retainer bracket and replaced the coils. Reassembled it in reverse order, performed functional test. Success!