11072102310 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Pulled out AC cord from wall socket first! Removed the dryer door and front panel (2 screws each) Then pulled both wire connectors off 2 coils. Removed hold -down bracket over coils. Replaced both coils and reconnect . No need to replace electronic igniter for gas. The right parts were shipped faster than I expected. Easy job. The Maytag repairman remained unemployed once again!

Pried the top up, disconnected the door switch, removed two top screws holding the front panel, disconnected the spring and removed the front panel. Removed the screws and retainer holding the coils, replaced both coils and reversed the process. This was the third component I replaced to solve the problem....a cheap multi-meter and some testing would have solved the problem sooner. We now have the whole heat cycle.

The repair went very smooth. I was able to follow the directions on partselect and had the repair done in 15 minutes. I took extra time to test the continuity on the ignitor and fuses. I also used the shop vac to clean out the inside of the dryer. The best part I liked about this web-site is the fact that once I described the problem I was told that the "M" series style coil was the fix 90% of the time! $27.70 including shipping was all it cost to make my clothes dryer work like it did the first day we got it!!

Wouldn't have had a clue how to gain access to the coils without online instructions. It actually took longer to open the front of the unit than it did to replace the parts. Following the online instructions I removed two screws under the lint trap door. I then used a stiff putty knife under the left and right front corners of the lid to release the top, which I tilted back. Per the instructions I easily located the two screws releasing the front of the dryer. You have to lift the drum a bit to release the front panel. Once removed I was able to remove and replace the failing coils and then reversing the steps to put it all back together. An easy job and the dryer is back in shape.

removed frt cover & drum, replaced solenoids, cleaned the unit interior

My suggestion is to read all of the items that may result in no heat, or insufficient heat, you will find your problem in one of the reply's and the right part to replace. The repair was made much easier, as I installed a Maintenance kit at the same time. Drum rollers, drive belts and tensioner. With the drum out, the coil retaining clip was a LOT easier to re-instal. If the drum isn't out, you can lift the drum up a little and squeeze a stubby screw driver in to loosen the retaining screws. You have to use the proper size screwdriver so you don't strip the screws, and maybe a pair of gas pliers around the handle of the screwdriver to give it a little torque to help loosen the screws, while keeping downward pressure on the screwdriver.

Pretty much just followed the installation video. Took dryer apart and just put everything back the way it was.

Viewed online then found part and ordered it in, took front off of dryer and cleaned out the dryer. replaced igniter seemed to work but ended up having to replace thermial fuse.

First, unplug power. The coils are easily accessible from the front of the dryer. Use a 5/16 nutdriver to remove two screws at the bottom of the bottom panel and lift the bottom edge of panel toward you. Pops right out. The assembly with the coils is on the front left. Use a small phillips to remove the coil-retaining bracket. Keep track of orientation of which coil goes where. Slide the suspect coil up off the column and slide the replacement in its place. Carefully slip off wire clips from old to new coil. Repeat for second coil. Reassemble and test.

Unplug appliance from power source. Started by simply using screwdriver or steel putty knife to snap up the top corners of the top section of the dryer. It swings open like the hood of a auto. Looked on the back side of the front panel and found small 5/16" bolts on either side. Removed these bolts and lifted up on the front panel to remove the panel. Slide panel out of the way far enough to access the coil kit on the lower front section of the dryer. (The wires going to the door control switch will allow this without unplugging.) May need a helper to hold the dryer drum up out of the way or prop it up as I did with a block of wood so you can easily unplug/re attach the coil wiring. There are two Phillips head screws that hold the coil keeper in place. Remove these two screws, unplug the two coils (front coil has a three connector plug and the one behind it has a two wore plug). the front coil has a small sleeve that I needed to transfer to the new coil in front. Inserted sleeve as it came out of the old coil, slid both coils back in place, replaced coil retainer being careful to line tabs on top of coils so that they lined up in the coil keeper. Replaced screws in coil keeper. Placed front panel back on being careful not to damage the felt liner that the drum spins on. Replaced the two bolts on the inner side of each corner of the front panel. Lowered the top panel and firmly pushed it back down so that the holders went in place. Plugged it up and it worked perfectly.

Removed the two screws fromt he lint track on the top of the dryer. Inserted putty knife between the top of the fromt panel and the dryer top and pushed in to release the two catches for the front panel. I rested the top panel against the wall to get it out of the way of the front panel . Next I removed the two nuts at the top of the front panel . Removed the electrical safety connector for the door using a very small screwdriver to release the catch. Pull up on the front panel to detach it from the bottom catches. I rested the drum on a couple of 2x4s to support it while the front panel was off. Locate the housing for the coils which is on the front of the dryer left side. Remove the cover fromt he coil housing by using a stubby phillips screwdriver and remove the top two screws. Remove the wiring connectors from each of the coils. Replace the coils being careful to align the coils with the "keys" in the housing cover. Reverse the process to complete the job taking care to ensure the felt around the drum does not bind.

The dual cil gas valves were out of resistance range. The new coils were easy to install with a screw driver, sockets set and multi-meter.I checked the coil resistance and one of the new coils were a little high, but I installed them and they have been working fine.

I went onto the Part Select website, they have a problem solving section that told me the most likely part to replace first and a description of the machine and the location of the part. I purchased the part, I unplugged the electric cord first. I then opened up the front of the machine with a philips screw driver, changed the part with the philips scew driver, I put back the front of the machine and the machine worked. It doesn't get any better then that!

Opened the top, removed the front panel. Supported the drum with my foot while I replaced the coils. I used a very short screwdriver so I would not have to remove the drum.

The hard part of the repair was the diagnosis. I'd take the front off the dryer, start it up, and the flame would fire up. I'd put it all together, start it, hear the flame start, leave, and it would still be running 4 hours later with the clothes wet. Discovered that one of the gas valve coils would work cool and show connectivity, but would stop working shortly after starting. To check the flame and remove the front, remove the door - 1 phillips screw in each hinge, then jiggle up and down pulling away from the dryer. Then, two screws on the opposite side. Facing the opening, grasp front and pull toward you to swing it down. You can temporarily put the door back with the front off while you start it to watch the flame cycle. On regular heat, the flame will run pretty much continuously - in my case, it would start, run for about 1 minute then stop. I assumed it was cycling, but it really runs longer than that. Coil replacement was easy - unplug the dryer, pry off the electrical connectors, remove the two screws on the left which hold the retainer containing the coils Then pull the coils straight up and replace with new ones. The one with three connectors is in front; the one with two connectors in the back. There are plastic tabs on the coils which fit into holes on the retainer. Reassemble in reverse order. To confirm diagnosis, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the coils. The front coil has continuity between the center connector and each of the side connectors. The back coil has continuity between the two connectors. If you're not getting a reading at 1k ohms, it's probably an open coil and needs replacement.