11072342511 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

There are many good youtube Kenmore/Whirlpool door switch replacement demos online. The one already done by this site )was close enough for me. I could see that the door switch on my dryer was bad (the plastic part that the door makes contact with was visibly broken, as seen from the outside) -- so I ordered a new one. You don't have to open the top fully to access the switch wiring harness -- i propped it open with a roll of duct tape, The hardest part for me was to disconnect the old switch from the harness (I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to free it). Be careful, the metal inside the opened dryer is sharp, and can cut you.

Grown daughter did the repair following instructions on your site........Unplug, take screws out of top by lint filter and with putty knife pry up top panel and lean back. Unplug elec. harness in front corner. A screw on each side of front panel removes that. Get old belt off and then we vaccumed all the lint from under and around drum. Put new belt around drum making sure not twisted and pull pulley as shown to make tight......... would have taken less time but we vaccumed all the lint from under and around the drum. Anyone could do this......

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

the video was very well done and able to understand. disconnect power ,remove lint trap,remove 2 phillps head screws, push putty knife in front seam line about 1'' in from corners to release top assembly ,lift up and support, disconnect wire connector ,remove 1 screw in each front corner lift front panel off while holding drum, remove broken belt,install new belt with grooves against drum ,feed around tensioner pulley and onto motor shaft pulley ,spin drum by hand to make sure belt tracking etc. reassembly in reverse.

Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.

First unplug appliance, Remove dryer top and front. remove drum and belt. Two clamps hold motor in place. remove them and lint chute housing in rear, exposing the fan. Use vice grips to hold motor shaft behind belt pulley flat spot. Remove fan, it's reverse threads. A large adjustable wrench on plastic fan nut and spray lubricant if very tight. Place new motor next to old and switch wires over, crimp on new 1/8'' connectors. Remember the green ground wire may need an allen wrench. Put back drum,belt, lube the rollers and replace back cover, front, top.

This was super simple - even I could do it! I followed the 3-step instructions which basically described how to hold the new handle and pushed it into the holes in the door. Less than 30 seconds and no tools.

Determined that the door switch was not making contact. Removed the lint screen, removed two screws in the lint screen housing, pulled the top of the dryer up at the front of the dryer. This provided access to the door switch which was mounted on top.

The brightness of the light was because the door switch was allowing too much current to the light bulb when the door was open but the switch would not swich the current to the dryer motor when the door was closed. After a day or so of this bright light it burned out. I removed the two screws on top that hold the lint trap in place then I could access the switch by sliding the top of the dryer forward and lifting the it as you would lift the hood of a car. The switch is on the right side and plugs into a three wire connector and only fits in one way. Cheap and easy fix after unplugging the dryer from the wall power outlet.

After getting the part and sizing up what to do. I removed the 6 1/4 hex nuts from the back. I removed the 2 hinge nuts 3/8 and popped the lid of the dryer up. It wasn't coming up all the way. I removed the lint filter and removed the two #1 Phillips screws that held the lid to the duct and it came up easy.The switch itself was clipped together and came apart with ease. 2 #1 Phillips screws held the switch in place and quickly tightened down the new switch. I clipped the new switch to the old lead and just reversed the order putting it back together. The light worked and the drum stopped when the door was opened during the cycle. The part matched perfectly and there was no guess work about clearance. It was an easy repair.

I googled 'replace dryer belt' and found instructions on the 'Virtual Repair Man' web site. After reading the instructions through twice I began.

First I removed lent filter and removed the two screws that hold the lent body in place. I rotated the top panel up and back and leaned it on the wall; proped up the dryer drum with some scrap wood pieces; rotated the front panel of the machine out enough to slip the new belt, groves down, around the drum; reinstalled the idler pulley under the drum; raised the drum slightly and reattached the front panel. Reattached the top panel and replaced the filter. Did a test run and worked good.

I got a price from Sears for the part and they were asking $45 just for the belt. I saved enough in parts and labor to take my wife out for a real nice dinner. thanks

Un pluged and Moved it out from the Wall, Raised the top, found broken belt. ordered belt on line, 2 days belt came in. cleaned all dust and dirt out put greese on berrings for rollers bleu out vent hose with Leef Blower. put top down, pushed back. pluged in and turned on IT WORKS!!!

My 12 year old son and I took off the front of the dryer to see if we could see what was wrong. The belt was snapped and on the floor of the dryer. I ordered the belt from you--it came three days later. That evening, my son held the drum while I laced the belt through the pulley. We cleaned everything up--lots of lint! Put everything back together, plugged it in, turned it on--SUCCESS! We were wildly excited. I am a stay-at-home mom determined to save money any way I can.

I followed the posted directions from others, and it was a breeze. They were really helpful. I would just add the step of keeping the drum in place with a block of wood underneath before removing the front. Slip the belt around the drum, reattach the front , and then finish positioning and tensioning the belt once the block is out of the way .

well, the hardest part is getting this thing apart - you have to take out the lint trap and remove the two screws from the top. Then I was trying to lift the top off - it's held in place by clips so you have to gently but firmly lift it off from the front end and let it open while still semi attached at the back (like a chest). Detach the electrical wires - they are just clipped in place. Then remove the screws (one on each side) that attach the front panel, and (and this is the hardest part if you don't know how it's attached). You have to SLIGHTLY LIFT the front straight up and then pull it away towards you. I just pulled it off, breaking the little attachers, which I subsequently had to weld back on with a welding compound and leave it overnight to set. the next day was pretty easy though...

The spinning drum is pretty easy to get out and you set it aside. Then I saw the belt pulley sitting there on the bottom of the dryer out of place -- fortunately with the belt there came instructions on how to instal it - READ THOSE INSTRUCTIONS - after that it's cake - put the belt around the center of the drum and feed it through the other parts underneath (this is easier if you tilt the dryer back a bit to get at it better. And you must pull back on that pulley after you have put it in place again - clips into the bottom of the dryer - it's supposed to have a lot of tension on it. Put it all back together and voila!

good luck!