11077102310 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed the door after some trial and error attempts. Door handle should come with instructions. Nothing but the handle was in the package. YouTube videos did not cover this model.
Remove the screws holding the hinges to the door, one on each hinge. Pull the door straight up from the hinges. Be careful, the hinges have springs that shut the door. Once the door is off, remove the screws around the four edges. Separate the front from the inside of the door. Set the inside of the door aside. Remove the flanged nuts from the inside of the door. There may be other screws to remove and save. Save the nuts for reinstallation.
Remove the handle. Replace with the new handle and reuse the flanged nuts and screws to install the handle. Reassemble the door (there may be a piece of cardboard inside for sound proofing) and slide it back onto the hinges. Replace hinge screws. Walla, you’re done.

Both my husband and I are not good at DIY or fixing things. I watched the instruction video that was posted on the PartSelect web site. It seems easy to do it, however still very skeptical. My husband decided that there is nothing to lose in trying, so we ordered the parts. It is as easy and simple as the video instruction. We are very happy customers.

Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

Unplugged washer,removed the two screws by the lint trap,moved the top foward lifted the top (it'shinged in the back )the switch is right inside the door top right hand corner removed the two screws that hold the switch in place used a flatblade screwdriver to seperate the connections pulled off the old installed the new switch put every thing back together worked as though it wes never broken

removed front of dryer located igniter removed two screws disconnected wires then put new one in also replace thermal fuse and thermostat on back of dryer works great.

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

Replacing the part was easy: unscrew the old one from the front of the dryer after opening door, disconnect and replace with new one. Getting to it was a bit more difficult: Remove 6 screws from the back, 4 that hold the back of the top down and 2 that hold the control panel in place. You had to remove the control panel to free up the wiring bundle (held in place by a tie wrap inside the control panel housing) so you could move the top forwards enough. Then remove the top of the dryer by lifting the back up slightly and moving it forward to disconnect from attachments in the front and move aside to gain access to the switch.

I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.