1106012510 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Christopher from Orlando, FL
- Parts Used:
- 279816
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer quit heating
I removed the hex head screws from the back of the dryer and removed the back panel, after unplugging the dryer. I tested the various electrical components until I found that the upper limit temp fuse had gone out. Came to partselect.com and found the kit I needed and ordered it. When it came in, I replaced the upper temp limit fuse, and the other parts that came with the kit. I also, since the back was open, used the opportunity to vacuum out the blower fan and as much of the lint as I could get to. Dryer works great now!
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- Customer:
- Lisa from Woodstock, GA
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
drum wouldn't turn
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!
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Front seal was ripped.
Step one: UNPLUG THE 220V LINE!
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
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- Customer:
- Dillard C. from Vina, AL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10512946, 349241T
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
drum roller became lose and seperated from the shaft that supports it. it had to be replaced
remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse
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Poor drying and took excessive amount of time to complete partially dried loads
Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.
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- Customer:
- Stanley from Flushing, NY
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken drive belt
I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.
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- Customer:
- Eric from DELHI, NY
- Parts Used:
- 279816
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Dryer runs, but won't heat.
First only replaced the high temp cut off switch which allowed the element to heat. However, after one heat cycle the switch would not reset. Then changed the thermostat (included in the kit). After tapping the cut off switch lightly to manually reset it, the dryer ran perfectly. Moral of the story: always change all parts included with a repair kit!
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- Customer:
- Michelle from Fort Myers BEach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken drum belt
I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.
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- Customer:
- lance from GREENSBURG, PA
- Parts Used:
- 4392065
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Noisy when drum rotates
Used the maintenance kit....followed the movie tutorial. I also used an empty gallon plastic container to support the front of the drum while stretching the belt over the motor pulley. For the rear drum rollers, before sliding them on the shaft, I put a light grease film on the shaft. After the repair, the dryer runs quieter.
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Dryer belt worn out, rear seal worn replaced drum baffle
Unplugged unit and removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum and belt. noting how belt ran through the belt tension-er. Removed old felt seal from rear of drum. Replaced broken baffle, replaced rear seal. reinstalled belt. Put unit back together and test ran.
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Intermittent heat issues
The replacement parts are truly easy to exchange. Everything is located behind the rear panel. A few fasteners needed to be undone. What's really important is another video that explained what should be "checked" when a dryer malfunctions. VERY IMPORTANT viewing. I spent an afternoon going over the front inside and rear of my dryer. I'll probably get another ten years from my dryer thanks to this site data and videos.
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- Customer:
- DAT from ALHAMBRA, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10512946, W10612022, 349241T, 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Noisy
Asking my question on you tube they show me problems and parts to need replace and how do installation.
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Clothes coming out damp, after a 60 min cycle
1. Unplug unit, next disconnect vent then remove back cover. 2. replaced element (very easy) then 2 thermostats, then put cover back on. 3. Removed frt. cover by following directions that came with maint. kit this too was easy. The hardest part is getting belt on as your putting drum back in, and even that was only so hard. Just TAKE YOUR TIME, and you will get it.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Eaton, OH
- Parts Used:
- 279816
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
No Heat
The dryer stopped heating, it would only blow cold air. I removed the back panel and tested the thermal fuse with a dmm. The fuse was open, so it was bad and I needed a new one. I tested the thermostat and the dmm measured continuity across the terminals, so I thought it was good, bad assumption. I ordered a thermal fuse from partsselect and it came with a thermostat. Like a dummy, I only installed the fuse. The 1st time I ran the dryer the fuse blew again, because the thermostat was bad. So, moral of the story, install both parts.
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