1106072011 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.

remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse

I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

To replace the thermostat and heating element, I followed the video from PartSelect.

Before buying the parts, I had already taken my machine apart to clean it and check for lint build up, but there was only a bit of dust, no major blockages. Because the burning smell was metallic, I just had my fingers crossed that replacing the heating element and thermostat would do the trick. It worked!
There is an odd ceramic sort of smell in the first 5 minutes of using the new element but that went away and all is working well at this point.

My components looked slightly different from those on the video; I had fewer wires so I just took photos of everything before I started to make sure I put it all back in the correct place.
I had to watch another video on how to easily remove the thermostat, mine was stuck. I just used a flat head screw driver behind it like a lever and gently pried it off.
It took me about 30 minutes total only because I had to watch a couple of extra YouTube videos due to the differences of my machine. I don’t usually do repairs like this one and wanted to be completely sure I was doing it correctly, but the work/repair itself was super easy.

The lint trap seal was just because mine got damaged when I took it apart to clean it. I just pulled the old one off, made sure the old adhesive was completely removed, (it peeled off like scotch tape), I cleaned it, then I slowly went around the edge of the vent/housing and stuck the new foam seal down. No video required, just common sense.

The dryer stopped heating, it would only blow cold air. I removed the back panel and tested the thermal fuse with a dmm. The fuse was open, so it was bad and I needed a new one. I tested the thermostat and the dmm measured continuity across the terminals, so I thought it was good, bad assumption. I ordered a thermal fuse from partsselect and it came with a thermostat. Like a dummy, I only installed the fuse. The 1st time I ran the dryer the fuse blew again, because the thermostat was bad. So, moral of the story, install both parts.

Found that when the dryer continued to run after the door was opened that the door switch had gone bad. I unpluged the Dryer, opened the top of the dryer to get access to the switch by lifting top up with fingers and a gentle prying of a flat screwdriver to release spring clips holding it down. I then unplugged the wires from the switch and removed the 2 screws that held the switch in. Then reverse this process when you get your new switch from part select (which we received in 2 days) and the total time to fix it took aprox. 10-15 min. total to do. Easy fix for ANY handy person at home!

I followed the video. So easy..

I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!

Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.

i took the face off dryer and removed the belt and drum then removed the lint trap from back to clean and have access fan then removed the retaing clips holding the motor then with two adjustable wenches unscewed the motor from fan took out motor and replaced in reverse order all you needed was some common sence to do this i though it was easy to do greats parts fit perfect thanks tommy

removed back of dryer. Pull electical connections, removed heating element. Inserted replacement element, attached electrical connections and attached dryer back. Done -easily done.

unpluged the dryer, took off the back, followed instructions and was able to take of the problem on my own.

I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.

The videos showed the tech taking the front off the unit but my unit didn't play that game. Instead all I had to do was take the top loose, (don't forget to take the dryer vent screws out first, that was the first beer) then access to the switch was easypeezy. That coupling for the switch assembly was 2 beers long. Anyways, got it all back together and it works like it's suppose to.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.