11076455610 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

After un-plugging the frig and allowing it to defrost, we emptied the frig and gave it a thorough cleaning inside and outside. I then removed the shelving in the freezer and the face plate at the back of the machine. One of the defrost heater coils had burned out and there was a loss of continuity which was keeping the frig from defrosting properly. The old heater snapped out easily. I went to this website and ordered a new defrost heater assembly which arrived practically overnight. It was identical to the old one and installed as quickly and easily as the original had come out. I put the faceplate back on, put the shelving back in, placed a thermometer inside the fresh food section, plugged it in and waited until I heard ice cubes drop. The fresh food section was holding at 41 degrees F which is optimum. The refrigerator has been working smoothly every since! Easy job!

Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

Removed rear panel, removed 3 screws and old element and installed new element. To install new element I only needed one screw and spliced in the two wires that were provided with the element. This repair was simple and now the dryer works great.

I followed the video. So easy..

I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!

Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.

The first step was to check the electrical supply to make sure I had power 120 volt. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas supply and turned the dryer around so I could have access to the back panel removed panel to access the wiring harness and safety thermostats. All switches and wire checked good with my ohmmeter .I pulled off the front kick panel and checked the electrical schematic and found the door switch was in the circuit to check it I had to lift up the top and pop out the front to access the door switch checked switch and found it defective. Replaced switch vacuumed out dryer and vent reassembled dryer and all worked good.

Ordered the motor with pulley and blower wheel in case the wheel did not come free from the motor.
Took out the lint screen, took off the top and disconnected the wires for the door switch, took off the front.
Remove the idler poi and the belt and then removed the drum.
I read in other repair YouTube videos, the blower wheel sometimes is so seized onto the motor axle that you have to remove the wheel by cutting it off.
Yes, ours seized!
Cut off the motor axle with a hacksaw and then the motor and the wheel were free. This was not an issue since I had purchased both the motor and the wheel which I recommend doing anyway. Our dryer over 25 years old and it does not have many electrical components, which I love. We removed the parts put in the new parts. Follow the wiring diagram to get the new motor hooked up.
Then I replaced the drum support rollers, which were a snap and then we put it all back together.
We added an extra step because we had to takeoff the back of the dryer to gain access to the blower. It turned out to be a good thing since years of lint have been trapped at the bottom of the lint chute.
I cleaned everything, washed everything and put it all back together and it purrs like a kitten.
Took us about 2 1/2 hours total since we are very cautious and slow as we didn’t want to break things.
I am very happy with the end result and hopefully it will last another 25 years!
Parts were spot on and worked perfectly.
Much more economical than buying a new dryer for $750-$1000.

I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

Went on-line Chat and described my problem to a very professional and patient representative who requested the necessary information needed to replace my filter. Note: Due to the age of the my dryer, Sears no longer had a replacement. I'm thankful that this site was able to accomodate my need.
The repair, or should I say replacement, was as simple as pulling out the old filter and replacing it with new. Only tools, my two hands.

IT WAS EASY, TOOK OUT THE OLD ONE AND PUT IN THE NEW ONE!! ANY ONE COULD DO IT.

i took the face off dryer and removed the belt and drum then removed the lint trap from back to clean and have access fan then removed the retaing clips holding the motor then with two adjustable wenches unscewed the motor from fan took out motor and replaced in reverse order all you needed was some common sence to do this i though it was easy to do greats parts fit perfect thanks tommy