11076978810 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Followed the instructions, removed the back cover, disconnected the top, disconnected the element and removed the element holder, then the element. Reversed procedure to install the new part.

Removed rear panel, removed 3 screws and old element and installed new element. To install new element I only needed one screw and spliced in the two wires that were provided with the element. This repair was simple and now the dryer works great.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

i took the old knob off, went to partselect and ordered the part really easy as their site helped me find the correct part, and put it on with ease when it came in the mail. It works great and PartsSelect helped me be a hero to my wonderful mom. Thanks.

Just put the knob on where old knob was.

My wife did the repair

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

I unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet, removed the back of the unit and checked the heating element for continuity. There was no reading. I then removed the housing and heating element and visually inspected it. The coiled wire was broken in two places.
I then did a Google search with the model number and found Parts Select. I placed my order Sunday afternoon and the part arrived the following Wednesday. That evening it took about 20 minutes to install the new element,put the back on the dryer and re-attach the exhaust tube.
The old dryer is as good as new again.
TJ in Boise

The dryer would dry the clothes fine and run through heat cycles and cool down. The timer would also run down, it just would stop even thought the heat stopped. To repair, I took the back off the timer portion of the dryer. At first I panicked. I did not see any part that looked like the new one I just ordered. I searched the internet and found that the original part looked like a black plastic loop with a black and orange wire connected to it. The part I got was the new design. Then I couldn't figure out if it mattered which end I hooked to the black wire. Another internet search showed it doesn't matter which way current flows through a resistor, so it didn't matter. Hooking in the new part was very easy. The time it took to get the information to identify the part, and determine if it matter which end to hook up to which wire took the longest. I would recommend PartSelect put a picture of the old style right beside the picture of the new style. Also would like them to make clear it doesn't matter which direction the Timer Power Resistor went in.

Timer knob.....took new knob out of protective shipping bag and installed it on the existing timer stem. It took less than one minute.

Door catch kit......removed original female latch part from dryer door and installed new one by pushing it in the hole left by the original part.

IT WAS EASY, TOOK OUT THE OLD ONE AND PUT IN THE NEW ONE!! ANY ONE COULD DO IT.

Went on-line Chat and described my problem to a very professional and patient representative who requested the necessary information needed to replace my filter. Note: Due to the age of the my dryer, Sears no longer had a replacement. I'm thankful that this site was able to accomodate my need.
The repair, or should I say replacement, was as simple as pulling out the old filter and replacing it with new. Only tools, my two hands.

Removed door gasket that was on the door. Replaced with newer gasket (was a tad bit too big, so it slipped off as well.) Added some electrical tape to hold it on. Works like a charm.

First off, start by turning of the breaker to the dryer and confirming the power has been turned off. Next, remove the lint screen and two screws holding the lint screen housing to the lid. Remove the two side moldings on the control panel and the two screws holding doun the enclosure. Slide the control enclosure forward and lift up . Take a picture of the wiring for later reference and carefully unplug the wires and set the enclosure aside. Next, remove the two screws holding the rear lid retaining clips. Gently pry up on the front of the lid to realese hold doun clips, swing the lid up and remove it from the rear clips, set the lid aside. Remove the two screws on corners of front cover located near the top, unplug the door switch. Remove the front cover by lifting straight up, set aside. Now remove the belt from the motor by realeasing the tensioner and remove it from the drum. You can now remove the drum through the front. Now is a good time to check the condition of your drum rollers, clean them as needed or replace them. Clean the roller shafts and apply a quality grease. "Clean the roller groove on the drum" this is what makes the drum sound bumpy! Remove the rear seal and replace it as per the instructions that come with the seal. The glue dries quickly, so have the seal fully in place and apply glue to small areas replacing the seal fully before moving on. You can now reinstall the drum being careful not to damage the seal. Place the drum on the rollers, reach inside and work the seal into place. You can now replace the belt and work in reverse with the casings! It took me longer to type these instructions than it did to make this repair! Enjoy your like new machine!