1106008715 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I replaced the male end first hoping that a change in the female part would not be needed. Unfortunately no. I used needle nosed pliers to pry the male part out and pushed the new part in. The female part of the door catch was more difficult. I didn't do it in "textbook" form, but got the job done with pliers and a screwdriver. Worth every penny to fix correctly instead of rigging it. Do it!

the part fit perfectly, it just snaped right into place.

Pop out the old latch and replaced with a new one

just followed the video directions, worked perfectly thanks

removed screws that held the door face to gain access to catch replaced catch reassembled door tried dryer works great!

Incredibly simple! You just pop the other plastic catch out with a butter knife and pop the other on in. This is the second time I have done this over the last 4 years or so.

Followed Youtube video - quick & easy

Just slipped it on, it was very simple. My dry cylces were reduced. Worth the $15 I spent to get the part!!!!

I diagnosed the problem, as a broken arm on the actuator for the door shut switch. I jumped the switch, and dryer worked. I went to this site, found the part I needed, ordered it/received it quickly, and proceeded to do the repair. The video that THIS particular part goes for, isn't' like MY dryer. My dryer hinges in the rear. You just remove the 2 screws on either side of the control panel, (right and left), pull forward on the panel, to ease its attachment, let it lie. Then with a small plastic pry tool, pop the 2 attaching points in the front of the dryer. Front end lifts up, like a hood on a car. My roommate held hood up, while I R&R'd the switch actuator. Went back together, in reverse of my taking apart. Worked great. Thanks a bunch.

I replaced the springs and cables in the dryer door.

Removed what was left of the old hinges, installed the new ones. Also added a length of jack chain (same size chain that’s on a toilet flapper) to one side to support the door while open. Tried to chain up both sides but it wouldn’t let the door completely close and depress the switch. Cables are no longer supplied by any parts dealers.

First diagnose the problem. No air coming out the exhaust or filter, things aren’t drying, you can’t hear the blower running.
Fuses or breakers are verified ok and on.
Turn dryer off. Disconnect exhaust tubing after unscrewing it’s clamp. Drag the dryer away from the wall to get access to the back and unplug the 220 v power cable from its socket. Get behind the dryer to remove its back cover plate by unscrewing its holding screws with screwdriver or small socket wrenches.
Vacuum out the back of the dryer removing the powdery dust around the blower motor and pulley and remove the old belt.
Since there is no adjustment arm, you have to stretch the belt around the rim of the blower pulley with both thumbs pulling upward against the motor pulley below.
After the belt is in place you can pull on it to be sure both pulleys rotate so the blower fan will rotate. Then just put the back plate on the dryer, replug it in, push it back enough to hook up the exhaust pipe and push the dryer back to its home spot.
Turn it on and you’re ready to go. Then order a spare belt for the future in about 5 + years.

Repair was not successful

Removed old catch and strike with screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Installed new parts. My old catch did not have comparible numbers so I just used the yellow one. Worked fine.

All I had to do was get the model number off of the dryer and plug that information in online and within a couple of days the part arrived. It was great! There were directions that came with the part that explained how to replace the old latch with the new one.

I remember in the "olden days" when I would of had to call a repair guy out and paid a lot more than the $12.00 I did to replace the part myself. And, the only reason it was $12.00 dollars instead of $5-6 was because I had it shipped overnight.

Awesome!