1103402856 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

UNPLUG Drier
Remove bottom panel 2 screw
Remove 2 connector to coil
remove 2 screws
lift off cover
lift coil s
reverse steps

I took the front of the dryer off. The two gas valve coils were right in front. Replaced the two terminal gas valve coil and the secondary coil valve three terminal. Cleaned the inside with shop vac and re-installed the front dryer panel.

I took the front dryer panel off by removing 4 screws. I the removed 2 screws from the bracker that secured the 2 valve coils. I unplugged the 2 coils the placed new ones in the exact same position. Fastened the valve coil bracket and replaced the front dryer panel. The dryer worked like new. Thanks!!!

MY issue was the heat would cycle up on a fully cold dryer, but if the Dryer stopped for whatever reason or started a sucessive new load, you'd get no heat. I could leave the dryer unplugged for 30 minutes and it would fire back up with heat but would go out shortly, or if lucky might finsh the load.

Most of the repair avenues point towards the cycling thermostat or the flame sensor.

But It was the gas Coils.

It's Been perfect for couple weeks.

Great Site

removed cover removed old coils installed
new coils ,test dryer running great .
thanks partselect.

Unscrewed the front and ran the dryer. The heating coil DID get red hot but the gas DID NOT blow out. Unscrewed the cover over the top of the two coils. Disconected the wire. Replaced coil and cover. SUPER EASY. Its the starting and holding coil which lets the gas shoot out onto the heating filament. $75.00 just for the repair man to come out plus parts, plus labor. Probably saved $200+. All the prints of the parts are on the website so you can see what your changing. TRUST ME....DO IT YOURSELF. You'll be glad you did!!

The first thing to do is to check to be sure the vent is clear. The easiest way to see if this is the problem is to pull the dryed away from the vent and let it vent into the room. Once you have determined that the vent is not the issue, take the front cover off and see what is going on on the inside. To remove the front cover first remove the 4 screws on the inside of the upper cabinet to take off the control panel, I was able to gain access to the screws under the front of the control panel that hold the front cover in place. A couple of electrical connectors later the cover is removed. The coils are easily accessed from in front of the burner by removing the 2 screws that hold the small silver cover over the coil. Once the cover is removed, the coils slide off a short shaft and you can replace the coil by swapping the apporpriate electrical connector for the coil being replaced. The coils are alligned with a small white pin so you can't get it wrong. Replace the covers and fire away.

This repair is easy and saves you a lot of money. This is a great web site, easy to identify the parts you need and the delivery is very fast. Nice Job!!!

We followed the on-line video which was very helpful but it took longer for us. But the part didn't fix the problem, so we had to go back on line and research it some more only to find that the more common cure for our problem was the gas coils which were even easier to replace and that did fix the problem.

The diagrams listed online gave me a the information needed to trouble-shoot which part could be broken. It only took two tries to see which part was out but was significantly cheaper than a repairman. The expediant delivery on parts made down-time a minimal. Very pleased with results.

I ended up taking the entire dryer apart when I didn't need to, and it turns out it wasn't the Igniter Kit in the first place but the thermal fuse in the back. Was pretty simple to repair in any case however.

Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.

Pretty much just followed the installation video. Took dryer apart and just put everything back the way it was.

Viewed online then found part and ordered it in, took front off of dryer and cleaned out the dryer. replaced igniter seemed to work but ended up having to replace thermial fuse.

unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and would recommend it to a friend.