11086673800 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Front seal was ripped.
Step one: UNPLUG THE 220V LINE!
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Lisa from Woodstock, GA
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
drum wouldn't turn
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Michelle from Fort Myers BEach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken drum belt
I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Dillard C. from Vina, AL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10512946, 349241T
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
drum roller became lose and seperated from the shaft that supports it. it had to be replaced
remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
dryer would not turn on
Found the switch part on the floor and after I figured out where it came from it was minutes before it took to find the web site and order the part, I then watched the installation video which helped with a few pointers and days later it was installed and fixed for 10 dollars with shipping,AMAZING!!!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Jesse from CHURCH POINT, LA
- Parts Used:
- WP4391960
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Heating element was toast
Undid the back, remove wires going to element, unscrew lint trap, pop the top and undid the nut-screw holding the element housing. pulled out the bad element and did everything in reverse with the new element... unplug it first though because I left that step out.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
My dryer stopped heating
The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not stop - Would heat and dry but never shut off
Replaced the Thermal Fuse first - 30% chance - didn't help! Then I replaced the resistor - Not an in-kind replacement - looks different-Guessed the wrong place first [no specific directions :( ] and got some sparks - Yikes! Picked the second place and installed the resistor and it work PERFECT. Spent Less than $50 and back in business = GREAT!!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
For the thermal fuse, dryer would not start. For the heating element, dryer would not heat up.
First disconnect power supply either by switching off breaker or unplug dryer cord, or do both if you are a safety freak. Pull dryer out so you can get to the back panel. Take the dryer hose off, then take screws out from around panel and remove it. For the THERMAL FUSE take one screw out, unplug wires and replace thermal fuse. For HEATING ELEMENT, unplug the two wires from element. At top of air duct there is one screw to get out. You need a long flat head screwdriver. Reach through a small hole on dryer back to the screw. Once screw is out, lift up on air duct to get it out. Once you have it out there is one screw holding heating element in air duct. Remove screw, slide element out and reverse steps from when you took it apart to put it back together.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Stanley from Flushing, NY
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken drive belt
I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Alan from Lebanon, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP4391960
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Two cycles to dry clothes
Unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. I lifted the top of the dryer for easy access to the screw that held the Heater Box. Removed the Heater box, unbolted the heating element, pulled the old one out put the new one in the reversed the process.
I ordered the part Saturday, had it by Tuesday.
I ordered the part Saturday, had it by Tuesday.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Drier ran but would not heat up.
removed 5 screws holding back cover on. Oh yeah very important (that is if you'd like to be around to help your buddy do this) unplug the unit 1st!
Accessed the heat coil. Difficult to remove the element so opened top of dryer to access the screw that was on top of the housing was then able to easily remove the element and replace with the new one. Actually, removing the top of the drier was a very good thing because it gave me a chance to throughly clean out any lint. but number one reason was I found the drier door cutoff switch wire had come loose from its clip and was laying on top of the drum and slowly grinding the insulation off the wire! had not shorted yet but would have failed soon.
anyway... I got cheap when buying the parts and didn't buy the real part that was bad... (lesson learned) anyway found the parts I did replace were not bad. So back to the net again to order the last thermal limit switch and fuse. received the parts 3 days later installed them. Now life is good! Well at least dry warm shirts and socks! Decide to keep the extra parts just in case I need them down the line.
Actually even with the problems encountered "I" still repaired the drier myself saving big bucks and enjoyed the small but fulfilling challenge!
Excellent experience working through partselect.com
Accessed the heat coil. Difficult to remove the element so opened top of dryer to access the screw that was on top of the housing was then able to easily remove the element and replace with the new one. Actually, removing the top of the drier was a very good thing because it gave me a chance to throughly clean out any lint. but number one reason was I found the drier door cutoff switch wire had come loose from its clip and was laying on top of the drum and slowly grinding the insulation off the wire! had not shorted yet but would have failed soon.
anyway... I got cheap when buying the parts and didn't buy the real part that was bad... (lesson learned) anyway found the parts I did replace were not bad. So back to the net again to order the last thermal limit switch and fuse. received the parts 3 days later installed them. Now life is good! Well at least dry warm shirts and socks! Decide to keep the extra parts just in case I need them down the line.
Actually even with the problems encountered "I" still repaired the drier myself saving big bucks and enjoyed the small but fulfilling challenge!
Excellent experience working through partselect.com
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Don from Dayton, TX
- Parts Used:
- W11778253
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lint Filter wore out had to be replace
Changed out the lint filter
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Donald from Pine City, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP4391960
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Clothes took multiple cycles to fully dry.
Removed rear panel, removed 3 screws and old element and installed new element. To install new element I only needed one screw and spliced in the two wires that were provided with the element. This repair was simple and now the dryer works great.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!