11087170800 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

I looked up my paperwork on the dryer and found out how to remove the proper panel to get to the inside of the door. (I was able to find the manual on the internet also).

I cleaned all the dust while I was inside. The actual repair of the broken parts took about 5 minutes.

Parts received were exactly like the broken ones.

Thanks Parts Select. Saved me $139.00

John

Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.

This model top can be popped off after removing the two screws under the lint filter. Once exposed remove the old cables and feed them through the hole on the front panel. Feed the springs through the ends of the cables and hook the other end into the dryer side panel slots towards the top on each side. Once both cables are fed, feed the opposite ends of the cables into the slots in the dryer door (after popping the white plastic covers out of them first). Put the white covers back into the slots to hold cables into doors. The door catch kit install is pretty obvious.

I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.

simple repair, pop the dryer lid, remove the screw for the front of the door. install cable and spring and then reassemble.

The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.

i took the old knob off, went to partselect and ordered the part really easy as their site helped me find the correct part, and put it on with ease when it came in the mail. It works great and PartsSelect helped me be a hero to my wonderful mom. Thanks.

Just put the knob on where old knob was.

Changed out the lint filter

Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

Like others have descibed, place Dryer on back and remove two hex head screws on back two phillips screws under lint cover, front is "clamped" with two plastic clips that I popped with a standard screwdriver. The door has two screws on the door switch, I removed these although I'm not sure I needed to. Lift the front out of the way. Look at the belt before you remove it, the tensioner pully isn't screwed in place and drops once the belt is removed. It isn't hard to figure out how it goes back together, but you might as well save the swearing. Remove the belt and the drum lifts out. Remove the old seal and glue the new one in place. Another repair suggested clothes pins to hold the seal while it dried, but I opted for some spring clamps with a little more grip. While the seal dries vaccuum the inside of the dryer and vent pipe clean everthing up good by the time you're done the glue is dry. Put the drum back in using a putty knife to slip the seal in place. re assemble in reverse order of disassembly. If I were doing this repair again I would have bought the front seal too. It doesn't appear to get as much wear as the back, but while you have it open why not? Repair easier than expected, but took more time with the cleaning and glue dry time.