1103401798 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First I opened the back panel & check the fuse with multi meter tool ( put in ohms & set it in 200K) & the fuse is Ok, try to run the dryer while looking in the flame dock & the burner starts & had a fire till about 2-3 mins. & flame comes off, what I did is I open the front door to access into the gas burner, check gas valve coils with multi meter tool for continuity & found out that one of the coil doesn't have continuity. I ordered a pair of coil that is located on top of the gas valve on this site & unexpectedly it came in the next day, WOW! that's a fast delivery I was very pleased w/ the service, come home from work & installed it right away & it took me 5-10 mins. Put back everything & try to run it & it works properly. So happy with & my wife as we'll, thanks for the great fast delivery.

Replaced bad coils

replaoed igniter ,easy to do after watching video

First, unplug power. The coils are easily accessible from the front of the dryer. Use a 5/16 nutdriver to remove two screws at the bottom of the bottom panel and lift the bottom edge of panel toward you. Pops right out. The assembly with the coils is on the front left. Use a small phillips to remove the coil-retaining bracket. Keep track of orientation of which coil goes where. Slide the suspect coil up off the column and slide the replacement in its place. Carefully slip off wire clips from old to new coil. Repeat for second coil. Reassemble and test.

unscrewed the 2 screws holding the coil's in place took wires off one coil at a time tested coils with ohm meter found the two wire coil was bad replaced and scered the bracket that holds the coils back in place.PartSelect gave me a list of what was causing the problem and what the % of what was the cause,this helped alot Thankyou PartSelect

I'm a 65-year-old woman with no prior appliance repair experience. I learned on the web that 30% of the time, the failure-to-heat problem is caused by the valve coil, and 30% of the time, it's the cycling thermostat. So I ordered both parts. I watched installation videos on the web. The valve coil was accessable through a front port on the dryer so I started there. I had to go buy a stubby screwdriver because access to the screws was limited. From there, it was easy to take out the old valve coil and install the new one. Just 5 minutes. I plugged in the dryer again, turned it on, and it worked.

Both washer and dryer always worked perfectly. Suddenly, dryer wasn’t drying laundry properly. Problem... no heat. Cheapest price I could find calling for appliance service was about $160 to replace coil set but no one would tell me this would fix the problem. This was after calling a number of repair firms and trying to get a somewhat close estimate of what my problem was and what the repair cost. Not knowing, I might have just paid the $160 but what turned me off was having a service call fee of anywhere from $50-$80 with no one willing to tell me what the problem might most likely be before coming out or give me an estimate over the phone other than a range of $160 - $275. I just did not want to have someone come out for $50 -$80 and tell me that I needed to spend $275 and still owe them the service call even if I did not agree.
Found diagnostic and repair instructions help on line. The diagnostic information indicated a high probability, roughly 50%, that replacing the coil set would solve the problem and found the coil set cost $19.21 plus shipping, so I ordered the coil kit for total of $26.70. Note... I am a 71 year old amateur never having worked as a repairman of any kind except for my own needs.
The repair itself took less than 30 minutes start to finish and was one of the most straight forward, glitch free, easy repairs I have ever done. This is a gas dryer but still uses 110 power so I unplugged the 110 power cord from outlet. Followed suggested guidance on opening the dryer cabinet from the front and presto, the coil set I needed to replace was immediately right in front with easy access. Removed 2 screws for the hold-down bracket, slipped off both coils, one at a time, removing the wiring connection for each coil and then reconnecting to each new coil before slipping each new coil back into place and reattaching the hold down bracket. Reinstalled the dryer door and cabinet front in reverse order from taking off... 4 screws total. Plugged in the 110 power cord and put in a damp load of freshly washed laundry. Presto... 30 minutes later... dry laundry. Note... could do the same repair again in half the time since I took it slow and careful 1st time and also took time to remove dust before completing repair. I like things to look like new inside and out and it did when I was done. $26.70 and good as new. Why I didn't spend $160 - $275 is pretty obvious now.

Pried the top up, disconnected the door switch, removed two top screws holding the front panel, disconnected the spring and removed the front panel. Removed the screws and retainer holding the coils, replaced both coils and reversed the process. This was the third component I replaced to solve the problem....a cheap multi-meter and some testing would have solved the problem sooner. We now have the whole heat cycle.

This turned out to be easier than I thought. I opened the access door on the front of the dryer after unplugging the dryer and turning off the gas. I reached in just inside the door with a short-handled phillips head screwdriver and removed the two screws holding the two coils in place. The screws were pretty tight and a bit difficult to get loose but after serveral attempts they finally broke loose. Once I removed the plate that covered the two coils they just slipped right off, much easier than I thought. I removed the electrical connections then attached the wires to the new coils and slipped them back on their respective pins. I reattached the "cover", then plugged the dryer back in and turned the gas on and started it up. The flame fired right up, much stronger than before I replaced the coils and of course the flame stayed on. Problem solved. Repair was really pretty simple with the diagnosis being the biggest problem.

Repair was easy, remove bottom cover, remove screws that hold coil bracket, remove old coils & slip new ones on & button up. Dryer works fine now.Had the new parts within 3 days. Thanks PartSelect!

Removed the two screws fromt he lint track on the top of the dryer. Inserted putty knife between the top of the fromt panel and the dryer top and pushed in to release the two catches for the front panel. I rested the top panel against the wall to get it out of the way of the front panel . Next I removed the two nuts at the top of the front panel . Removed the electrical safety connector for the door using a very small screwdriver to release the catch. Pull up on the front panel to detach it from the bottom catches. I rested the drum on a couple of 2x4s to support it while the front panel was off. Locate the housing for the coils which is on the front of the dryer left side. Remove the cover fromt he coil housing by using a stubby phillips screwdriver and remove the top two screws. Remove the wiring connectors from each of the coils. Replace the coils being careful to align the coils with the "keys" in the housing cover. Reverse the process to complete the job taking care to ensure the felt around the drum does not bind.

Since the power and gas to the dryer were both already turned off all I had to was open the top of the dryer, remove the front panel, look underneath the drying drum and remove the belt tensioner from the belt and slide the drying drum out. While things were open I took my vacuum and vacuumed all the lint, dirt and loose articles from over time out of the dryer interior. I located the igniter, used a nut driver to remove one screw pulled the igniter from its housing and disconnected the wiring harness. For installation I reversed the process and I was done. I reinstalled the drying drum, reattached the belt tensioner, put the front panel back in place and closed the dryer top. Attached the dryer vent hose, plugged the dryer to the electrical outlet, turned on the gas and walla it purred like a kitten. It even seem to dry faster than before.

Checked the resistor to confirm it was good. Removed the two screws that are accessible after you pull the lint screen out. Use puddy knife to release the two plastic clips that hold the top on. The top will pop up like car hood. You have to pull up on it with steady pressure. I used a plastic puddy knife to prevent scratching anything. Prop top up so it does not fall back down and strike your head or fingers. On each side inside the housing there is a sheet metal screw that holds the front of the dryer on. Before you remove them unplug the door switch wire. As you get these off you will notice that the whole front is loose and the drum looks like it will fall out. It may if you mess with it. Gently tip the front away from the dryer housing and drum assembly. After the front is out about 5 inches pull up and the bottom can be moved away out of the small hook clips. Set it aside. The burner assembly is on the lower left. The coils are there remove the sheet metal screws and lift it up. Remove them one at a time. Notice the small locate pin and position the coil in the same orientation assemble in reverse. The door is tricky to get back on. Don't forget to unplug before doing any work. This can be done without disconnecting the gas service.

Unplug electric, open top, take off front, with a small Phillips screw driver remove two screws securing the coils, remove one coil at a time, unplug and replace with new coil, secure with metal bracket and reinstall front and top and your done.

The dual cil gas valves were out of resistance range. The new coils were easy to install with a screw driver, sockets set and multi-meter.I checked the coil resistance and one of the new coils were a little high, but I installed them and they have been working fine.