11060072990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

The repair was no problem. Just taking off the hex screws removing the crimp wire and replace the parts in the kit and the old dryer came back to life again.

Thanks

You can buy the switch AND lever/latch, but partselect had lever by itself which is all I needed. Pay attention to orienation of lever around switch when you take old latch off and attach new. Also, be careful to not drop new lever behind/beneath clothes dryer drum. Took my wife and I a while to fish it out. I have replaced heating element, and other parts. At some point it will be time for a new dryer...

I disconnected the dryer from the electric. I removed the lid to the dryer by first removing the lint door screws and prying the lid off properly. Disconnected the wires to the door switch. Removed the screws from inside the door and carefully removed teh actuator. Seperated the actuator from the switch and replaced the broken actuator. Reinstalled the actuator and switch and screwed the assembly back in place. Reconnected the wires, lowered the dryer lid and screwed the lint door screws back in place. It Worked perfectly.

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

Drum belt broke. Found drive shaft belt guide broke. Replaced pulley wheel since I had it apart.

A) Watched video of repair on site.B) Looked around for competitive prices and decided on PartSelect because of original parts, price, and 1 year guarantee.C) Proceeded to take dryer apart like video showed. Error was my dryer front panel has two screws covering the heater box and that was all I needed to remove and replace heater instead of dismantling the back. Good news though was, I removed all the lint build up in the machine so not a waste of time. Be sure not to touch the new heater wire coils as oil from your hands will destroy the heater prematurely. Heater was original Whirlpool ! I'm a happy camper.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Did not hear the "clicking noise of the door switch when the dryer door was shut. First I unplugged the dryer from the socket. Next I removed the two screws that hold the lint filter receptacle. Next I pried the top of the dryer open with a screwdriver. Next I removed the two screws that held the switch actuator spring in place located just inside the top of the door. Then I removed the old spring from the door switch and replaced with the new. Not too difficult once the problem was diagnosed.

Unplug the machine. Take off back panel and remove heater assembly. Since I was already into the heating system, I replaced the heating element as well ($30). I replaced the old thermal cut off and overtemp, put the wires back on the connectors, reassembled, and the dryer works like it did when brand new! Within 30 minutes the repair was completed. Still saving for a new front loader washer/dryer, so the repair will hold us until we have enough to buy new. Alos, helped us to need to dry clothes on a clothes rack in the house. Good practice and lesson for the entire family!

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!