11096293500 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on

Just replaced part

Opened access door, noticed main power wire to heating element was partially melted. This was caused by a bad connection to the drying element, loose. Removed heating element assembly. Cut bad section of wire and added new connection. While doing this the thermostats plastic casing cap came off ! Probably due to exessive heat / resistance from the bad connection. This confirmed why there was no heat. Intalled new thermostat and and am now good to go !

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

I followed the video. So easy..

Unpluged dryer power cord.
Removed lower front panel (two snap clips at top of panel)(Rear panel cannot be removed from this dryer). Removed blower/filter housing (held by two screws). Found blown fuse by using an ohm meter across the fuse terminals with one wire removed - no continuity. When new parts arrived, I removed two wires from fuse and four wires from thermostat. Removed two screws holding fuse and two screws holding thermostat, and removed both parts.
I then reversed the above procedures.
Dryer works great!
Total cost, including shipping, was $47.76

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

Take pictures along the way.
1. Remove lower front panel using screwdriver to lift up on tabs on top of panel.
2. remove door
3. unplug moisture sensor plugs
4. remove lint trap
5. on back of dryer, remove screws holding upper lid
6. slid up lid forward just a small amount, its hooked in towards the front of the upper lid. you will need to do this so you can can remove two screws under the lid holding the front panel of the dryer on
7. remove the front panel screws mentioned in step 6.
8. Remove lower front panel screws
9. remove front panel
10. reach into dryer at the bottom and release tension from belt pulley, sliding the belt off. (make a note of how the belt is routed around the drive and idler pulleys)
11. slide out tumbling drum
12. with drum removed, use socket wrench and socket to remove old idler pulley.
13. install new idler pulley
14. reinstall tumbling drum
15. slide belt back around tumbling drum, looping belt around drive pulley and around idler pulley.
16. When belt is installed, rotate drum a few revolutions to ensure belt rides correctly.
17. Reinstall front panel
18 slide top panel back into place and secure with screws from back
19. reinstall door
20. reattach moisture sensor plugs
21. reinstall lower panel

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.