1103401799 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

removed frt cover & drum, replaced solenoids, cleaned the unit interior

My suggestion is to read all of the items that may result in no heat, or insufficient heat, you will find your problem in one of the reply's and the right part to replace. The repair was made much easier, as I installed a Maintenance kit at the same time. Drum rollers, drive belts and tensioner. With the drum out, the coil retaining clip was a LOT easier to re-instal. If the drum isn't out, you can lift the drum up a little and squeeze a stubby screw driver in to loosen the retaining screws. You have to use the proper size screwdriver so you don't strip the screws, and maybe a pair of gas pliers around the handle of the screwdriver to give it a little torque to help loosen the screws, while keeping downward pressure on the screwdriver.

Watched video. Made this a very easy repair.Will use this site for next repair.

It Went well Part was very fragile

Pretty much just followed the installation video. Took dryer apart and just put everything back the way it was.

Viewed online then found part and ordered it in, took front off of dryer and cleaned out the dryer. replaced igniter seemed to work but ended up having to replace thermial fuse.

the repair was an easy fix, I removed the two screws from the brackets holding the coils, disconnect and removed them installed the new coils connected plugs turned on dryer and I got heat not bad at all thank you for the help

I have a whirlpool gas dryer. My dryer all of a sudden would not heat up. I diagnosed the problem and discovered that it would light (using the peep hole in the front) when the dryer was cold, but once warm, the flame would go out. I bought a cheap multimeter and tested all the themostats on the back of the unit after removing the back panel. All the thermomstats checked out except the cycling thermostat which should no signal through one of the connections (purple wires). I ordered a new thermo and replaced the old one but it didn't fix the problem. Seems that there isn't a current between the purple connections.... Since the flame did light when the unit was cold I figured it wasn't the ignitor so it was either the flame sensor or the coils. I took the top and front panels off (alot easier than I thought; see videos) and checked the flame sensor with my multimeter. It was fine. Only thing left was the coils, so I ordered a set. IF YOU NEED COILS, SAVE YOURSELF MONEY AND ORDER THE PAIR. YOU GET BOTH COILS FOR < HALF THE PRICE IF ORDERING INDIVIDUALLY. Replacing the coils was rather easy. You will need to prop up the drum with something to keep it from impeding your screwdriver. A stubby philips really helped here. Also, since the gas valves are closed when there is no power, there is no need to disconnect the gas line and fuss about a gas leak (This really saved time). Once the two screws for the coil plate were out of the way, the coils simply slide off the valves and unplug easily. NOTE: Make sure you line up the one new coil with plate when you put it back together. It has a little tab that fits into the plate. All-in-all it took about 30-60 minutes to do. If I were to do it again it would probably take 15 minutes. Pretty easy job for a do-it-yourselfer with only basic tools.

The hardest part is figuring out how to get the unit open. You have to take out the brackets that appear to hold on the timer section and you have to remove the screws under the lint filter. Once you have the top off then you remove the screws that hold the front panel on from the inside. I decided not to remove the drum it seemed like a lot of hassle, instead I went down and got a right angle screwdriver, the terminal valves are in the front of the unit and you only have to remove 2 screws to remove the retainer which holds them both in place. The drum is in the way so you can't use a regular screwdriver and the right angle is a bit slow going but I think it is actually faster than removing and replacing the drum for a novice like myself. Replacing the coils took about 2 minutes and then reassembly another half hour. But the Dryer works great again and for $70 it was well worth it.

Watched that igniter glowed for usual 15 seconds. Gas did not flow so tested solenoids for ohm resistance across leads. One was bad, less than 1350 oms (as I recall). Ordered the M series coil (solenoid) kit at Part Select, arrived the next day. Replaced them in 5 minutes. Took about 15 minutes to vacuum lint + dust out base of dryer area. 5 more min to put front of dryer 4 screws in and mount dryer door!

I had no idea how to take my dryer apart so it took me a little while to figure out. I hope by me writing this out my experience might help someone else fix their dryer instead of having to buy a new one. 1)I removed the lint screen assy by removing the 2 screws that hold it to the dryer top. 2) I popped up the front of the top of the dryer which is held to the dryer body by 2 spring type clips. Removed by prying up the top using a big screw driver to release it from the clips.3) Reaching through the top of the dryer and feeling down along the front there is one fastner on each side that holds the dryer front to the dryer body. I removed using a nut driver. 4) The dryer front then can be removed by lifting it up to release it from 2 hooks on the bottom that it hangs on. 5) The coils were located at the lower left side of the dryer as part of the gas heat assy. There is a bracket that holds the 2 coils in place using 2 screws. I removed these 2 screws. Then the old coils can be lifted off the valve post. Then unplug the electrical connector from the old coil and plug in the new coils. 6) Reverse the process to reassemble. After this my problem was fixed and my dryer is working great.

Viewed your video on line VERY HELPFUL, problem is the igniter will not stay on long enough to heat up. I just went back on your site and ordered a Thermal Fuse and a Cycling Thermostat for the machine but think it may be to old of a machine to keep trying to repair.

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't take more than 30 minutes.

First, unplug power. The coils are easily accessible from the front of the dryer. Use a 5/16 nutdriver to remove two screws at the bottom of the bottom panel and lift the bottom edge of panel toward you. Pops right out. The assembly with the coils is on the front left. Use a small phillips to remove the coil-retaining bracket. Keep track of orientation of which coil goes where. Slide the suspect coil up off the column and slide the replacement in its place. Carefully slip off wire clips from old to new coil. Repeat for second coil. Reassemble and test.

Followed the easy instructions on the video, and it worked. Sure beats calling a technician.