11067052600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

Had to force the old door catch out using the putty knife didn't work. Worked on it until I finally forced it out.

Dryer is still in pieces after two weeks, dependent upon my time and ability to work on the project. I usually dry my clothes on an outside line, anyway. I especially appreciate Steve's videos demonstrating step-by-step procedures for disassembly, part installation, and reassembly. Very thorough. I timed each presentation---five minutes for one, less than ten for the other. I watched the videos several times and took notes, so I would have the procedures in front of me while working on the unit at the other end of the house, I'm 77, forgetful. When I disassembled my unit, I noticed several rusted areas, so decided not to complete the project until I could get to the store for paint. As a primary care-giver for a severely dementiated 79-year Old Lady, I have to arrange for a relief to go shopping. That's why the machine is still in pieces. Got the paint, though, so back to work---eventually. When I disassembled the dryer, tucked away in the bottom was a very informative TECH SHEET, the discovery of which ticked me off that it wasn't provided with the owner's manual. At the bottom it says, "For Service Technicians' Use Only." In my house, I'm the "...Service Technician...," chief cook and bottle washer, launderer and litter box attendant.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

You tube

Unplug from electric ? outlet. Set the meter to ohm setting, check part ,no reading. Remove old part ,check new part with meter ,get a reading of 11 or more mA. Install new part and blower cover done.

Took Putty Trowel and pried out top and bottom then pulled out with needle nose pliers, new part just pops back in (be sure flanges are on top and bottom not sides).

Used a screwdriver to pry out the bottom of the latch then the top. Pulled old latch out, then snapped new one in. Super Simple fix.

Remove old filter, throw it away, replace with new filter.

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Followed the video.

Remove top, remove two front panels, remove rear panel to access drive motor release tensioner. Remove drum to access to heating element enclosure. Replace and reinstall after vacuuming all accumulated lent.

Removed front of dryer. Located thermal fuse, replaced blown thermal fuse. Reassembled.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

Didn't have a putty knife, so used a flathead screwdriver to carefully pop out the top, then bottom of the catch. New one easily popped in. Took less than one minute!