11087562602 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man.
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519

Removed back panel of the dryer-reached my hand to the back of the motor shaft, put 7/16 wrench on it to hold the shaft while I removed the broken pulley with pliers. Very easy fix-the tech on Utube took the entire dryer apart totally unnecessary. If that is what the factory tells its tech"s to do its no wonder why the labor charge would be thru the roof.

Started at the top by laying back the control panel, then I removed the top panel, then the front panel, next the drum and the broken belt. before I put it back together in reverse order, I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and the exhaust vent

At first, my dryer would just make a clicking noise but would not start. After some research, I unplugged it to try to 'reset' it and after that, I noticed the F01 error. Some quick research on the internet you can find the source of the error is a failed machine board. Some DYI people soldered the part where the connection broke but, I chose to just buy the new part. I was pretty confident where the error was and did not want to waste time and the cost of a repair man visit. I followed the instructions on the most thorough YouTube video and removed the top of the dryer, took pictures of the control board wires and began the removal process. The insertion fo the new board took about 1 minute. All in all, the physical work took my husband and I about 10 minutes. Research was about an hour and I had the part shipped overnight. This website has saved me hundred of dollars and lots of wasted time trying to find a repair man when Covid has made it difficult to get anyone to your house. Our washer sprung a leak during the initial lockdown and we were able to fix that ourselves as well.
My only comment about the part is that the chime at the end of the cycle is very different. I have yet to find out if I can change that but it is not too bothersome.
I love this website and its products!

I don't have instructions ,I watched the link provided by parts select. I just wanted to say I have never been a wiz at home repairs.it took so long because I am 62 with autheritis in my hands and the dryer had to be taken down to a motor and a base but I took the time to clean every inch of the dryer scary to see so much dryer lint inside the dryer.i am just going to say if I can do it anybody could fix their own dryer ,just take your time ,let your hands take a break. And keep the repair instructions close by

Removed top and back covers. Placed new pulley and retaining clip in place. I had to remove a couple of drum supports to put belt on. Probably didn't have to remove top.

I replaced both the door strike and the female portion. The door still does not close tightly. Heavy, wet items also knock the door open.

1 screw to replace.

Just replaced the old lint filter.

After determining that the dryer motor was the issue, I wrote down the part number and logged on to partselect.com website.

I input the number into the search box and there was the exact motor I needed.

The correct part showed up in a timely manner and the pricing was very fair.

I disassembled the dryer, removed the old motor and reinstalled the new motor within about 30 minutes.

Key point was to read the instructions first and then reconnect the wiring to the new motor. The new motor has the switch install in a different spot on the motor so be careful to follow the instructions but, the instructions were very clear and connections were very simple.

I also did some preventive maintenance while I was in the unit by cleaning out any remaining lint from the heater unit and surrounding areas, that took about 30 minutes. Reassembling was a snap and I turned on the gas, plugged it in and........SUCCESS! Total time of repair and cleaning was about an hour.

I had a load of laundry ready to go and put the new motor right to work. It has been non-stop drying and thanks to Part Select for getting everything right the first time. It has been a positive experience and I will tell others about the website if they have similar problems. Thanks again for a success story and dry clothing.

Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.

Pulled the lower front panel located thermal switch pulled 2 wires removed 2 small bolts pulled switch out set meter to ohms scale and tested between the 2 terminals it hailed the test I reversed for installation of new switch

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Next I removed the dryer vent hose and threw it away and replaced it with a more rigid metal vent hose. Next, I used a socket wrench to removed the screws holding on the back cover of the dryer. Once the back cover was off it was just a matter of using the socket wrench to removed the bolt holding the sensor in place. After the part was removed I made sure the replacement was orientated in the same way as the original part and then I unplugged the wires from the bad sensor and placed them in the same order on the new part and then I bolted the new sensor back in place. Since the new part has been installed the dryer is working flawlessly and is not turning off mid-cycle like it was. ***Oh, and an important reminder. When you have the back cover pulled off the dryer use a shop vacuum to suck out any dirt and lint in the back of the dryer and make sure you unbolt the metal chute that the dryer lint screen goes into and clean inside the area near the exhaust blower. This is a VERY IMPORTANT part of servicing your dryer and should be done every few months to help avoid the risk of a fire.****

I watched your instruction video, which by the way, 1. was not for my model dryer and 2. was totally opposite of what you showed. I was able to remove the back and replace it from there versus going in from the front and removing the drum, etc etc