11087721702 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.

removed door by undoing screws holding it on dryer.
Removed all screws on door EXCEPT the ones with star heads.
Separated two parts of door and undid screws holding hinge in place.
Removed hinge and replaced with new hinge.
Put two faces of door back together and installed door back on dryer.

To be honest and explain, I had previously taken apart the door and removed the star screws which allowed the other pieces of the door holding the window to fall apart.
After some difficulty, I was able to put the seal back on and re-install the metal window holders which is why I said it only took 15 minutes after the part arrived and why I accented NOT removing the star screws.
There were a couple of other screws which probably didn't need removing but they didn't cause any problem with the installation.
After putting the door back on, I had to manually twist the door a small amount because it didn't want to keep the button depressed which kept the motor running which turns the basket and heats the clothes.
The door had been causing some trouble for a couple years and we had obviously closed the door with a little extra force when it ''caught'' on the door frame causing it to bend a small amount.
It only took one adjustment and worked fine after that.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Next I removed the dryer vent hose and threw it away and replaced it with a more rigid metal vent hose. Next, I used a socket wrench to removed the screws holding on the back cover of the dryer. Once the back cover was off it was just a matter of using the socket wrench to removed the bolt holding the sensor in place. After the part was removed I made sure the replacement was orientated in the same way as the original part and then I unplugged the wires from the bad sensor and placed them in the same order on the new part and then I bolted the new sensor back in place. Since the new part has been installed the dryer is working flawlessly and is not turning off mid-cycle like it was. ***Oh, and an important reminder. When you have the back cover pulled off the dryer use a shop vacuum to suck out any dirt and lint in the back of the dryer and make sure you unbolt the metal chute that the dryer lint screen goes into and clean inside the area near the exhaust blower. This is a VERY IMPORTANT part of servicing your dryer and should be done every few months to help avoid the risk of a fire.****

On this model do not try to remove the back. You must remove the bottom front panel and the lint screen unit. You can then loosen the heat coil assembly and rotate it to get to the high-limit thermostat and the thermal unit. I replaced both because I bought the kit. It actually took me longer to clean out lint than it did to replace the parts. A simple remove of the parts with a 1/4 inch nut driver did the trick. Now my dryer works fine.

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller

Replaced power cord, terminal block, and all melted wiring. Checked the thermal fuse for zero resistance.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.

Just replaced part

I replaced both the thermal fuse and the thermistor at the same time. That seemed to fix the problem; but after a couple of days the dryer would not start. When pushing the Hold to Start button, the dryer just gave one beep and would not start. I did a resistance test on the old thermal fuse, and it was OK; so I put the old thermal fuse back in and the dryer works. Evidently, it was just the thermistor (thermostat, internal bias) that was broken. Both are very easy to change.

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.