11068072801 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Followed the video.

Dryer is still in pieces after two weeks, dependent upon my time and ability to work on the project. I usually dry my clothes on an outside line, anyway. I especially appreciate Steve's videos demonstrating step-by-step procedures for disassembly, part installation, and reassembly. Very thorough. I timed each presentation---five minutes for one, less than ten for the other. I watched the videos several times and took notes, so I would have the procedures in front of me while working on the unit at the other end of the house, I'm 77, forgetful. When I disassembled my unit, I noticed several rusted areas, so decided not to complete the project until I could get to the store for paint. As a primary care-giver for a severely dementiated 79-year Old Lady, I have to arrange for a relief to go shopping. That's why the machine is still in pieces. Got the paint, though, so back to work---eventually. When I disassembled the dryer, tucked away in the bottom was a very informative TECH SHEET, the discovery of which ticked me off that it wasn't provided with the owner's manual. At the bottom it says, "For Service Technicians' Use Only." In my house, I'm the "...Service Technician...," chief cook and bottle washer, launderer and litter box attendant.

The first thing I did was to watch the video from Part select on How to change thermostat cut off switch and the high limit thermostat fuse.I did not have a meter reader I just brought the thermostat cut off kit for about $ 32.00 dollars from part select and replace both part's and my dryer still was not getting hot so back to part select video's I looked up the video on replacing the heater element and I ordered one for about $ 97.00 with shipping I replaced it and put it back together and it worked it took just a few hours . I would like to give Avery special thank to part select for the video help and for having the parts for a great price again thank you so much.

Unplug from electric ? outlet. Set the meter to ohm setting, check part ,no reading. Remove old part ,check new part with meter ,get a reading of 11 or more mA. Install new part and blower cover done.

Had to force the old door catch out using the putty knife didn't work. Worked on it until I finally forced it out.

Remove old filter, throw it away, replace with new filter.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

Removed front of dryer. Located thermal fuse, replaced blown thermal fuse. Reassembled.

snapped new catch into door

Used screwdriver to remove old catch as shown via video from manufacture and snapped in new catch. Very easy to do and saved big bucks by doing myself.

Took Putty Trowel and pried out top and bottom then pulled out with needle nose pliers, new part just pops back in (be sure flanges are on top and bottom not sides).

Used a screwdriver to pry out the bottom of the latch then the top. Pulled old latch out, then snapped new one in. Super Simple fix.

Didn't have a putty knife, so used a flathead screwdriver to carefully pop out the top, then bottom of the catch. New one easily popped in. Took less than one minute!

Push in new catch...close door.