11068092700 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

Remove top, remove two front panels, remove rear panel to access drive motor release tensioner. Remove drum to access to heating element enclosure. Replace and reinstall after vacuuming all accumulated lent.

Followed the video.

Dryer is still in pieces after two weeks, dependent upon my time and ability to work on the project. I usually dry my clothes on an outside line, anyway. I especially appreciate Steve's videos demonstrating step-by-step procedures for disassembly, part installation, and reassembly. Very thorough. I timed each presentation---five minutes for one, less than ten for the other. I watched the videos several times and took notes, so I would have the procedures in front of me while working on the unit at the other end of the house, I'm 77, forgetful. When I disassembled my unit, I noticed several rusted areas, so decided not to complete the project until I could get to the store for paint. As a primary care-giver for a severely dementiated 79-year Old Lady, I have to arrange for a relief to go shopping. That's why the machine is still in pieces. Got the paint, though, so back to work---eventually. When I disassembled the dryer, tucked away in the bottom was a very informative TECH SHEET, the discovery of which ticked me off that it wasn't provided with the owner's manual. At the bottom it says, "For Service Technicians' Use Only." In my house, I'm the "...Service Technician...," chief cook and bottle washer, launderer and litter box attendant.

I saw a couple of videos to replace this but found a simpler way to replace the heating element on my dryer. DISCONNECT the POWER.
I removed the lower panel (6 screws). Dis-connected two wires; one going to the heat sensor in the back and the other to the switch at the front. Removed the two screws to the metal plate in front of the heating element. Slid the whole heating assembly out. Removed the screws holding the heating element in the housing. Removed the failed (open) heating element and installed the new one. Reversed the process for re-assembly.

Took a screwdriver and bent wings out a little and then was able to get hold of it with a pair of pliers. Then just put the new unit in the opening and tapped it in. If I had a good pair of needle pliers, it would not have been necessary for the screwdriver.

The repair cost us less than $9.00 and about 1 minute to repair. You can only imagine how much a tech would have charged us!! We are so very happy that we discovered this site . The instruction video they offered, the customer service via their website AND quick delivery of the part, has insured them that we will be repeat customers. Thanks so much !!!!! Bravo! Annie & Peter in , Nevada

Used a screwdriver to pry out the bottom of the latch then the top. Pulled old latch out, then snapped new one in. Super Simple fix.

Took Putty Trowel and pried out top and bottom then pulled out with needle nose pliers, new part just pops back in (be sure flanges are on top and bottom not sides).

Used screwdriver to remove old catch as shown via video from manufacture and snapped in new catch. Very easy to do and saved big bucks by doing myself.

I placed the putty knife on the top part of the door catch and when that came loose I placed the putty knife on the bottom of the door catch and pushed on the putty knife and the door catch came out of its place. I then just popped the new door catch in place. Total repair time 45 seconds. The door now closes.

snapped new catch into door

Didn't have a putty knife, so used a flathead screwdriver to carefully pop out the top, then bottom of the catch. New one easily popped in. Took less than one minute!