11062912100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

Opened access door, noticed main power wire to heating element was partially melted. This was caused by a bad connection to the drying element, loose. Removed heating element assembly. Cut bad section of wire and added new connection. While doing this the thermostats plastic casing cap came off ! Probably due to exessive heat / resistance from the bad connection. This confirmed why there was no heat. Intalled new thermostat and and am now good to go !

I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.

Unpluged dryer power cord.
Removed lower front panel (two snap clips at top of panel)(Rear panel cannot be removed from this dryer). Removed blower/filter housing (held by two screws). Found blown fuse by using an ohm meter across the fuse terminals with one wire removed - no continuity. When new parts arrived, I removed two wires from fuse and four wires from thermostat. Removed two screws holding fuse and two screws holding thermostat, and removed both parts.
I then reversed the above procedures.
Dryer works great!
Total cost, including shipping, was $47.76

Took, back cover out,but first i disconect the electricity,i give a fast look,looking for anything wrong and i saw a thermostar burn out in the element case,the bottom one,a thermostart
250 f. but a did a search in the internet,and found that when a bottom thermostart burn out, the top one had to be change,so i did a continuity text in the top one and was open ,i have it,a used one, change and connect the dryer to the Electrical outlet and (walac)it start the dryer,problem solve

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

remove top, front, drum, fan fan housing, replace motor

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!

Very easy do it yourself repair, and saved at least $300.00. I watched a video and it took me less than 20 minutes to complete repair. Part fit perfect and I have already ordered another to keep as a spare.

unplug the dryer used nut drive to take the back off unhook the hose from dryer . disconnect the wires. remove the 2 screws from thermal cut -off . install the new parts

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

i could not perform the repair because despite using the proper id numbers, i received the wrong parts from kenmore three times in a row. now i am trying to return the wrong parts which cost me 120.00 for the start switch, and the knob for the switch, so far. the switch was 40.00 the simple plastic button was (wrong) 40.00, and the wrong unidentifiable part, suposedly correct one, which also was 40.00. this, with the original 40.00 wrong switch amounted to the 120.00 that i am still trying to have returned. otherwise, the fix should be quick and simple, o yeah, its been three months.. you tell me if i am satisfied....