11077864600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Problem: Drum light not working, bulb ok. Removed 6 screws on panel behind timer, light, buzzer, switches. Lifted back of dryer top then moved dryer top forward and off of dryer. The switch was located above the door. Unhooked wiring plug and took out 2 screws holding in the switch. Installed new switch and repaced bulb. Reassembled as needed and tested light by opening door. Works great.

Repair was easy after identifying the problem. Parts select was correct with the 3 parts for trouble shooting. However I should have looked at the door switch 1st. Ordered a thermostat and On switch 1st. Then had to reorder the door switch. In the future just order all 3 to avoid the shipping charges and return what you don't need to save time and money.

The dryer wouldn’t turn on at all. It was like it was unplugged from the wall. However, fixing it couldn't be easier. I simply removed the back panel, found the fuse, tested it with an Ohmmeter (to determine that this was the part that didn't work), ordered the part from this website, and replaced the part. The part arrived in about two days. The shipping was a little pricey, but overall the whole thing cost me $20 vs. whatever it would cost me to get someone else to repair it. The website helps to identify the problem, and it is helpful to read how other people fixed their problems. It was so easy and the service was so good, I will definitely use this website again and recommend it to others.

Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

Our dryer would not heat and it seemed that no gas was coming from the regulator. The igniter was working fine but the burner never turned on. To check the problem, i followed the instructions to remove all body panels until I had access to the burner assembly. I dismantled both gas valve coils and tested each one for open or closed circuit using my multi-tester. I found that the three terminal gas valve coil was an open circuit and was not functioning so I ordered a new one from PartSelect and within just a couple days, had the drier back up and functioning. I also replaced the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter that has been changed by the manufacture. I must say that PartSelect has the fastest shipping I have ever seen. One part I ordered was at my door in less than 24 hours and I only paid standard shipping...un real! OUTSTANDING....5 STAR SERVICE

I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.

checked to see what the problem might be according to your website, ordered the recommended parts, received parts within 3 business days, watched video on website with instructions, replaced parts and surprise, dryer works as if nothing ever happened. thank you for the straightforward, no nonsense information and video provided in your website and the promt efficient service

I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

Initially we thought the problem was the igniter, so we ordered an igniter kit. Installed it but was unsuccessful. We then went on the websight and read further, about 50% of dryers with no heat but working had a problem with the thermal fuse.So we ordered the thermal fuse installed it, which was very easy, and success. Once the problem was diagnosed properly it was fast and easy. Recommend looking at the statistics for specific problem.

I moved the dryer to a location where I could get to both the front and back sides. I opened the back by first removing the top cover and then the back. It requires either a Phillips head screwdriver or a quarter inch socket. In addition, it requires removing the four power wires which connect to the computer. If you are unfamiliar with the wiring layout, take a photo with your cell phone which you can then refer to when re-assembling. Once the back was removed, I saw that the belt was still intact, but the pulley which provides tension to the belt was frozen. Take a photo of the belt route between the motor and the pulley. Try to get the spring position in the photo. Remove the belt from the pulley by reducing the tension and then sliding the belt out (this assumes the belt is not broken). The pulley arm is held in place by a single bolt which can be removed by a socket set. Remove the arm with the pulley attached. Examine the pulley to figure out why it is frozen. In my case, the pulley had been frozen for some time and the belt had actually chewed through the pulley and was sliding (polishing) on the pulley axle? I used a pair of pliers to loosen the destroyed pulley by rotating it back and forth over the axle while gripping the arm the axle is attached to. As it loosened up I worked it off the axle. I used a cloth to clean the axle of grime from the belt, pulley, and dryer lint. The new pulley comes with a washer and triangular plastic "fastener". First you put on the washer, then the pulley and then you secure it on the axle by sliding the triangular fastener over the axle so it sits in a small grove near the end of the axle. Then put the pulley arm back by replacing the bolt. Make sure you do not overtighten the arm since it is intended to rotate about the bolt. If the dryer belt breaks, the spring will pull the arm down and throw a cutoff switch. Its operation should be obvious. Once the arm is back in place, refer to your photo and replace the spring (this can be tricky and frustrating, particularly if you don't use something like needle nose pliers). Once the spring is in place, depress it and re-install the dryer belt. Refer to the photo you took earlier if you've forgotten how the belt was routed. Then re-install the dryer's back panel, re-attach the electric wires (again refer to the photo you took earlier), and re-attach the top cover. You might want to test your handiwork at this point before you reconnect the dryer vent

After unplugging and removing the back cover from the dryer, locate the push button switch. Slide putty knife around outer cover to unhook catch. Replace with new push button switch. My dryer is still not working, but this was a simple replacement.

Removed back cover, removed broken switch, replaced with new switch, replaced back cover, told wife her dryer was fixed.

once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.