11067072600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Took off front bottom panel reached in removed part that was very dusty. Put in new part. Cleaned out lint inside dryer. Works like a charm.

My husband changed the part but part select was very helpful. With their free repair help site it made repairing a breeze! We will use parts select again and again. I did order all the parts we might have needed and only needed one. Now I will return the others.

Once I watched a YouTube video showing me how to do the job I ordered the part from you. Am so impressed with your fast shipping and best prices via the Internet. Thank you SO much! The water level switch was easy to install, it ws getting the cover on the washer back on that was hard for me since I am 68 yrs old and have a bad knee. Its why it took me two hours to do what most people could do in 20 minutes.

The catch did not just slip out. I had to take door apart and then still had a tough time getting the latch out. I had to pry it out with a screw driver. It did not just slip out the front like some people said.

I did continuity tests on the on/off push switch and the thermostats - all were good. After some research I discovered the thermal switch which is somewhat hidden on top of the blower. Sure enough, it failed the continuity test. The two sheet metal screws are difficult to loosen from the access door at the bottom of the dryer. You can test the fuse from that location but it's more difficult to replace it without taking the entire dryer apart, which is what I ultimately did. Once the drum is out the fuse is very accessible. However, if you need to make this repair, try replacing the fuse from the lower panel (and avoid the time/effort in removing the drum). You might be able to use a 1/4" open-end wrench (or pliers) to loosen the sheet metal screws. I only had a standard ratchet set which is too big to fit into that tight space. Either way, it's not a complicated repair...watch the installation video - it's not exact but it's close enough to guide you through this.

I read the instructions on the internet. It told me what to trouble shoot first. The switch on the door then the thermo fuse and after that the thermostat. The off on switch on the door checked ok but the thermo fuse didn't when I followed the instructions on the internet. The thermostat did check ok. When I installed the new thermo fuse the dryer started like always before. I was pretty proud of myself for saving a hundred dollars or more. Thank you for the hlpful instructions.Larry

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

Took the back dryer cover off and removed the lint cover all from the back of the dryer then replaces the Thermistor (held with 2 screws).

After shutting off the gas supply and unplugging the electrical cord, I used a flat blade screwdriver to loosen the exhaust vent clamp and remove the vent tube from the outlet. Using a 1/4-inch nut driver I removed the screw holding the plate covering the electrical lead connection to the power supply, then I pulled the plate back and disengaged the tab from the cutout in the back of the dryer body to remove it. I then removed the eight screws holding the back cover of the dryer in place, then removed the cover. The thermal fuse is located near the bottom of the dryer at the back, just above the exhaust vent. I loosened the two screws holding it in place using the 1/4-inch nut driver, then I removed the two electrical leads from the fuse. I inserted the new thermal fuse and screwed it into place, then reinstalled the electrical leads. I then reinstalled the back cover, the power-cord cover, and the vent hose. I turned the gas supply back on and plugged the electrical cord back in.

Removal of the back panel was easy - 9 screws - replaced both the thermistor and the two-terminal thermal fuse - put back panel on - supplied power - tested it - works like a champ.

removed old one installed new one.

replacement - pry out the old, snap-in the new

My front- loading dryer is 4 years old and lint screen felt liner never lasted long without falling out. When I received my Part Select I knew the quality surpasses manufacture screen. It is so much better and we are your new customers forever Thank you Cheryl

Following the instruction video, using screw driver to remove the old one and push in the new one by hand.

I watched the video, took a knife and released the outer catches on the stainless steel spring clip, but part of the broken catch was inside the clip crossways and would not let the clip come out. I had a set of hook shaped picks (from Harbor Freight) and I tried to pull out the broken piece, but it fell inside the door. I was then able to pull out the spring steel clip, and push the new part in and it caught. I left the broken parts inside the door, thinking it would not hurt anything. Door latches OK now.