11067072600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

No problem changing the element, but it worked for one load and then the thermostat blew! Bummer but that was another easy fix!

I followed the advice and purchased a thermal fuse in advance. The advice forgot to mention a broken belt switch. Since the belt was broken I had no way of knowing how it was wrapped around the tensioner. Their diagrams are reversed from the Whirlpools. I called a local parts supplier, who turned out to be a repairman working out of his van. I met him in a restaurant parking lot and was on my way in minutes. The dryer was running within a hour. Great web site George - Pittsburgh

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

After shutting off the gas supply and unplugging the electrical cord, I used a flat blade screwdriver to loosen the exhaust vent clamp and remove the vent tube from the outlet. Using a 1/4-inch nut driver I removed the screw holding the plate covering the electrical lead connection to the power supply, then I pulled the plate back and disengaged the tab from the cutout in the back of the dryer body to remove it. I then removed the eight screws holding the back cover of the dryer in place, then removed the cover. The thermal fuse is located near the bottom of the dryer at the back, just above the exhaust vent. I loosened the two screws holding it in place using the 1/4-inch nut driver, then I removed the two electrical leads from the fuse. I inserted the new thermal fuse and screwed it into place, then reinstalled the electrical leads. I then reinstalled the back cover, the power-cord cover, and the vent hose. I turned the gas supply back on and plugged the electrical cord back in.

Popped the old catch out (but was not as easy to get out as described) but did pop back in very easily! The video was a great help!

Dryer is on a pedestal. Opened drawer and removed two 1/4 inch screws on bottom panel of dryer front. Panel drops down and exposes the dryer exhaust where thermistor is located. Removed two spade connector wires and removed two 1/4 inch screws. Installed new thermistor and reversed procedure. For the moisture sensors I used a phillps screwdriver and stuck my head in the dryer and removed the lint screen assembly (3 screws). Removed the spade wire connectors and used a straight blade screw driver to remove the moisture sensor. Installed the new sensor and re-installed the lint screen assembly in the reverse of removal. All very easy - just took 30-45 minutes total.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

The dryer was spinning, but the display said "sensing" for the whole cycle, and there was no heat. We took off the front of the dryer and the fuse was below the drum. This was an easy swap out, but it didn't fix the dryer. Then we ordered a thermistor, which also was an easy swap out but didn't fix the dryer. Last, we bought an ohm meter and tested the heating element, and discovered it did not have continuity. I had already ordered the heating element, as that was the next item to check on the list. The element was much harder to replace, because you have to take off the drum.

After reviewing the video of the fellow popping out the old door catch with a putty knife and popping in a new one, I tried that myself and there was no way it was going to come out without applying enough pressure to tear up the finish on the door. Tried the option of compressing the catch vertically with pliers and could get top or bottom out but not both. Believe my I have a garage full of tools and am very handy and this method was not going to work on my dryer. Finally removed the door and laid on carpet, took out all the screws and removed the catch from the back by squeezing with pliers. Replaced with the catch from the other side after doing the same.Re-assembled no problem. Ordered a replacement that I put in the unused side for next time.

Pretty easy to fix, hardest part was having to get the screws out of the inside of the dryer to replace the sensor itself. Once that was done it was pretty quick! PLUS super fast shipping on my part!! Was fixed before any repair places even called me back!!

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

Very easy, viewed the you-tube video and followed the instructions. Simply, unplug dryer, remove back panel (4 nuts), open back, remove one screw that holds board in place and slide left to remove. Take a picture of wire configuration to ensure you reconnect the same way. For the most part it is self explanatory for the exception of the hot wire and two ground wires and proceed to disconnect wires, install new board by reconnecting wires and proceed to replace back cover. Reconnect power source and get to drying.

I watched the video, took a knife and released the outer catches on the stainless steel spring clip, but part of the broken catch was inside the clip crossways and would not let the clip come out. I had a set of hook shaped picks (from Harbor Freight) and I tried to pull out the broken piece, but it fell inside the door. I was then able to pull out the spring steel clip, and push the new part in and it caught. I left the broken parts inside the door, thinking it would not hurt anything. Door latches OK now.

The door catch dislodged in the door and apparently broke. The hardest part was getting it out of the door because in trying to remove it, the piece fell into the inside of the door. I could have easily just installed the new part (it snaps right in with great ease, that part took exactly 5 seconds). But hearing that old piece rattle around inside the door would have made me a little nuts. So I decided to take the door apart to retrieve it. It was just a bunch of screws from around the perimeter of the door, but I also had to unhinge it to do the job. Putting the door back together wasn't as easy as I had hoped, with some pretty tight fits and the glass dislodging. Had a few moments where I was regretting. But I got the old part out, snapped the new one right in. I'm sure an appliance guy would have charged me $60 - 90 just for coming out. Instead I repaired the dryer for the cost of a $3 part. One small lesson learned here -- dryer doors are much like refrigerator doors, or at least mine is. There is a door catch on both sides of the door so you can hinge it to open either way. I could have done the repair for nothing! But I love parts select for just this reason. I don't do major repairs, but replacing pieces on appliances couldn't be easier with this service!