11086572501 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Dennis from PALM BCH GDNS, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP697813
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lint filter seal worn out
The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Edgartown, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP3387911
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Screen on the hot air vent disintegrated
It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
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- Customer:
- Kevin from VALDOSTA, GA
- Parts Used:
- 279640
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer was squealing
Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.
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Annoying loud metal to metal screeching noise.
Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.
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- Customer:
- Michael from BOILING SPGS, PA
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
My dryer was squeaking with an occasional thump
Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.
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- Customer:
- Garry from Garland, TX
- Parts Used:
- 280114
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Broken Drum Belt
Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,
Thanks,
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- Customer:
- Randy from HUNTSVILLE, AL
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Sqeeking noise fron old worn belt and rollers
Watched instructions, Ordered the kit and repair was fairly easy until the time to line up the cover over the fan wheel. That was difficult part. Would be best to have two people at this point to hold it and align the screw holes. Otherwise its was a fairly easy operation.
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- Customer:
- Philip from CHICAGO, IL
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Very loud squeaking noise
I removed all the panels, removed the tub, replaced the pulley, put the tub back in and replaced the panels. Just when I screwed the Last screw in the doorbell rang with the door switch which I installed immediately.
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Replace heating element and belt
Replaced heating element and went ahead and replaced the belt since the dryer was coming apart and belt taken off also. I used the parts select video and paused the video through each step to complete each step. There videos are great for this and as long as you pause and do each step per the video it is quite easy. I Highly recommend doing each step one at a time as I did not have a problem. Thanks for great repair videos.
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- Customer:
- connie from NEWARK, OH
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
rollers on the tub had worn and the tub was no longer balanced.
sounded like a pair of shoes was in the tub every time i started it no matter what size the load was. Replaced the back two rollers first and decided to start it to see how it sounded. We were glad. Only the back rollers were bad and the dryer was quietly running again. We would suggest replacing the back rollers first to everyone because the front rollers are more complicated to replace and they may not have to be at all.
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- Customer:
- robert from ELMA, WA
- Parts Used:
- 279640
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Squeaky dryer
Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.
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cold air vent in dryer was broken
remove 3 screws vent comes out put new part in works grate just like new a gain
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- Customer:
- Dwayne from Bainbridge, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP8577274
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Dryer would shut off mid way through cycle and give an E1 error code
After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.
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- Customer:
- Jason from Colorado Springs, CO
- Parts Used:
- WP3387223
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
not drying completely on the automatic settings
Not a handyman but this was an easy and cheap fix. Now the automatic settings are working and drying much faster. Unplug machine, front panel has 2 spring clips toward the edges that you stick a flat tool into and pull on the panel to open. Pull off the electrical connections from the old sensors by the right side of the lint screen. Needlenose pliers help with the one farther up there. Then just pull the old ones sensors out, stick the new ones in, reconnect the electrical and get ready to live the good life with dry clothes that don't smell musty.
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