11087572601 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

replaced dryer lint screen with new.

Dropped new filter in.

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

Looked it up on YouTube. It told me to take the front panel off. I did, changed the belt, put the panel back on and it works perfectly. The part came in the time it was supposed to and it was the correct part. Thanks.

Removed the top, front cover, drum and belt. Removed the idler pulley bracket and pressed the frozen pulley from the shaft. Cleaned the shaft and applied a small dab of anti seize and replaced the pulley. Installed all parts in reverse order. Dryer works like new again.

Took 3 screws out used the putty knife to pry the door a part then used the pliers to remove the old door catch and then sapped the new one and put the door back together and I was was done in less than 10 min.

I followed your short video and found it very easy to do

I saw a couple of videos to replace this but found a simpler way to replace the heating element on my dryer. DISCONNECT the POWER.
I removed the lower panel (6 screws). Dis-connected two wires; one going to the heat sensor in the back and the other to the switch at the front. Removed the two screws to the metal plate in front of the heating element. Slid the whole heating assembly out. Removed the screws holding the heating element in the housing. Removed the failed (open) heating element and installed the new one. Reversed the process for re-assembly.

I take the screws out of the door, I removed the catch from behind inside the dryer door, I slid the new catch in the door and snapped it in place. After getting a new catch in the door I put the door back together and put the screws in. Easy repair

just replaced parys

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

I thought there were just two screws to do the replacement. However, it is necessary to remove the entire plastic outside cover to accomplish this task. There are several screws on the inside of the door, some attach the door to the hinge. Check your manual to determine witch these are. What I ended up doing was completely removing all screws and the door. reassembling was a bit difficult but I got the job done.

one note, remember which screws came from which holes as they are close in size but a little different.