1106618252 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Dryer was taking long time to dry cloths, electric bill seemed higer than usual, used 1/4" nutdriver, removed rear panel, opened top cover w/screw driver to pry with, marked all wires with blk tape to id them later. Did thorugh inspect/clean of link section to propeller baleds 1 hr, continuity check of heater, switches etc found heater lower than spec, ordered heater, continued to clean all sections & vents, installed new vent hose, pulled about 2lbs of sand, dust, lint from all sections, heater works great now, clothes dry quick. New heater core came in mail and installed it. The newer elecment was 5200 watts, orig was 5400 watts, ohms was same, size etc. The unit works like a charm. Notes:Did not check or lubricat the drum. Drum is very squeaky, belt in good shape. Dryer is 20yrs old. Will replace when I can afford it! for now I can live with some sqeaks, anyway as I am getting older my hearing is going away, Good luck.

lifted top section of dryer
removed front dryer panel
removed drum belt and tensioner
removed both drum rollers
cleaned both roller axles
installed new rollers
reassembled remainder of dryer
if you are at all mechanically inclined, it is a simple job

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

Had to completely dismantle the dryer including the motor and grind off the.bolt holding the fan blade on. I did not realize it was threaded on with a left hand thread.Then reassembled.

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

Removed 2 screws holding the lint trap on top, popped up the top and lifted back, removed 2 screws on the inside top of front panel, lifted front off and set aside then reached under the drum and pulled tension pully to loosen the belt, and removed the drum. popped the motor clams off and then used 2 adjustable wrenches to grasp the nuts at the front and back to remove blower fan. When you look for the area in back to loosen the blower fan you may notice the nut that you are looking for is actually part of the fan and is plastic looking rather than metal. I did have to take off the back cover to the blower fan to tighten it back up.I had seen instructions that the blower fan would have a 3/8 hole in the back of it to loosen it,but mine did not. I assembled it and it works great with my new motor and rollers. I received my part in 2 days, very happy

I watched the part select you tube video that links specific loud dryer noises to specific broken or loose parts. It allowed me to identify the part I needed, which I ordered through their website. Two days later, I had the part and installed it, with help from another online video that showed me how to take the dryer apart to install the drum support roller. Thank you, the information provided made the repair quite easy. It works perfectly now!

Took of the btm pan and the top to be able to remove the front. Raised the drum enough to replace the right hand wheel. ( the old ones had already been removed) Replace the left hand wheel and bracket. Re assemble the machine. Worst part was trying to do all this with the can of beer in one hand!!

Took off old one clean surface up then put glue all around drum seal area wait one min. Or tacky then put seal on reassemble the drum. Works good

One screw held element. Removed back of dryer. Removed screw, pulled out failed element. Slid new element in. Put in and tightened screw. Replaced back. Only two problems: screw head was pointed away; replacing air duct to wall tube (always is a problem for me).

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

I diagnosed the problem, as a broken arm on the actuator for the door shut switch. I jumped the switch, and dryer worked. I went to this site, found the part I needed, ordered it/received it quickly, and proceeded to do the repair. The video that THIS particular part goes for, isn't' like MY dryer. My dryer hinges in the rear. You just remove the 2 screws on either side of the control panel, (right and left), pull forward on the panel, to ease its attachment, let it lie. Then with a small plastic pry tool, pop the 2 attaching points in the front of the dryer. Front end lifts up, like a hood on a car. My roommate held hood up, while I R&R'd the switch actuator. Went back together, in reverse of my taking apart. Worked great. Thanks a bunch.

This model you cannot lift the top lid without breaking it. Removed the exhaust hose and back of dryer. vacuum out the dryer and hose to remove the excess lint. Remove screws from the lint guard mounting. Loosen and remove 4 screws that hold the lint guard in place. The seal at the base of this assembly was missing the seal around the discharges fan. Remove seal with putty knife. Use a small brass wire brush to remove as much as you can. Vacuum area. Reinstall the lint guard assembly, start at the top, gently life and push assembly up and in. You should be able to determine how far. Start the bottom 4 screws, tight them. Check fit. Then put the screw back in on the lint guard on the top of dryer. Once you have completed this connect exhaust hose. Start dryer, check the dryer exhaust vent that is outside. If the flow is good, WELL DONE!

Recommendation: Check this assembly by removing the back of the dryer approximately every 6 mos. for lint build up. Not doing this may increase the risk of fire.