41780052991 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Took out of package. Used screw driver to pop off old broken handle.
Installed new part in a minute or two. Nothing to it. Was very pleased to get the part and so easy to install.

Took the front off the dryer and removed the old switch and put in the new one.

Watched Video Provided. Very Simple Repair. Asked my lovely wife to hold drum in place while replacing drive belt. She gladly complied and is back doing what she seems to love most. And no, I'm not kidding. Our washer and dryer seem to run 24/7/365. I've completed various repairs on both appliances over the last couple of years and saved 100's of dollars thanks to this site .

OK, this is a follow-on repair story.. I *did not* order the lower basket seal when I ordered the upper basket seal... shame!!! BUT, I am now exceptionally quick at removing the front panel - less than 20 seconds!!!

For those who are considering doing this repair, there are more detailed explanations below - my only tip to help do this "quickly" would be to get some automotive brake cleaner to dissolve the old adhesive .. it is AMAZINGLY effective.. The best part is, don't worry about completely removing the old felt when you are tearing it off.. If some is still stuck to the door, it will actually hold some of the brake cleaner in contact with the old adhesive, which accelerates dissolving of the adhesive. Scrape it all off with a plastic scraper, and wipe it down a few times - surface is prepped & ready for the new adhesive + basket seal.. Use spring loaded clamps to hold the seal in place as you install it also.

took apart and replaced parts easy to do but no one in my town can get me parts. thay want 100.00 gust to come out and look at it so found parts online and thats that

popped in one in

Took it apart and installed the parts. Then I threw the dryer in the trash and bought a new one.

Just opened package and popped the part right in!

I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado

First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.

lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!

Partselect provided me with what to look for with my symptoms and excellent delivery time.

Taking apart the dryer was easy. Pop the top, take out two screws, separate the front panel from the drum. Removed the old felt seals but much remained. Used a wire wheel on my drill to clean off felt and old glue (most difficult part). Applied new glue,used a band clamp, one hour later I reassembled the dryer; works fine. No more burn marks on clothes!

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

Removed the door and replace the upper glide and the lower seal. The repair was easy.