11076423620 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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the cable for the dryer door broke.
simple repair, pop the dryer lid, remove the screw for the front of the door. install cable and spring and then reassemble.
The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.
The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.
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- Customer:
- Alan from Lebanon, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP4391960
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Two cycles to dry clothes
Unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. I lifted the top of the dryer for easy access to the screw that held the Heater Box. Removed the Heater box, unbolted the heating element, pulled the old one out put the new one in the reversed the process.
I ordered the part Saturday, had it by Tuesday.
I ordered the part Saturday, had it by Tuesday.
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- Customer:
- Stanley from Flushing, NY
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken drive belt
I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.
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Door cable and spring broke.
I looked up my paperwork on the dryer and found out how to remove the proper panel to get to the inside of the door. (I was able to find the manual on the internet also).
I cleaned all the dust while I was inside. The actual repair of the broken parts took about 5 minutes.
Parts received were exactly like the broken ones.
Thanks Parts Select. Saved me $139.00
John
I cleaned all the dust while I was inside. The actual repair of the broken parts took about 5 minutes.
Parts received were exactly like the broken ones.
Thanks Parts Select. Saved me $139.00
John
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The door cables broke and latch was warn to the point of being too loose
This model top can be popped off after removing the two screws under the lint filter. Once exposed remove the old cables and feed them through the hole on the front panel. Feed the springs through the ends of the cables and hook the other end into the dryer side panel slots towards the top on each side. Once both cables are fed, feed the opposite ends of the cables into the slots in the dryer door (after popping the white plastic covers out of them first). Put the white covers back into the slots to hold cables into doors. The door catch kit install is pretty obvious.
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- Customer:
- Patricia from BUTLER, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10874409
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken lint screen
Exact part needed, fit exactly like original.
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- Customer:
- Jesse from CHURCH POINT, LA
- Parts Used:
- WP4391960
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Heating element was toast
Undid the back, remove wires going to element, unscrew lint trap, pop the top and undid the nut-screw holding the element housing. pulled out the bad element and did everything in reverse with the new element... unplug it first though because I left that step out.
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- Customer:
- Marceline from SAINT PAUL, MN
- Parts Used:
- W10874409
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The lint screen had a hole
Just slipped it in place
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- Customer:
- Michelle from Fort Myers BEach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken drum belt
I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.
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- Customer:
- Dillard C. from Vina, AL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10512946, 349241T
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
drum roller became lose and seperated from the shaft that supports it. it had to be replaced
remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse
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Poor drying and took excessive amount of time to complete partially dried loads
Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.
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- Customer:
- Douglas from Tiburon, CA
- Parts Used:
- 349241T
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
incessantly annoyingly squeaky dryer
Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)
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a loud, high-pitched ringing noise
Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.
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- Customer:
- Charles from Osceola, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP4391960
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Heating unit burned out.
Followed the instructions, removed the back cover, disconnected the top, disconnected the element and removed the element holder, then the element. Reversed procedure to install the new part.
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- Customer:
- Walter R from Gainesville, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP4391960
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Frig stopped cooling - Freezer side iced up
After un-plugging the frig and allowing it to defrost, we emptied the frig and gave it a thorough cleaning inside and outside. I then removed the shelving in the freezer and the face plate at the back of the machine. One of the defrost heater coils had burned out and there was a loss of continuity which was keeping the frig from defrosting properly. The old heater snapped out easily. I went to this website and ordered a new defrost heater assembly which arrived practically overnight. It was identical to the old one and installed as quickly and easily as the original had come out. I put the faceplate back on, put the shelving back in, placed a thermometer inside the fresh food section, plugged it in and waited until I heard ice cubes drop. The fresh food section was holding at 41 degrees F which is optimum. The refrigerator has been working smoothly every since! Easy job!
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