11065966401 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

My Whirlpool dryer had no heat. I removed the back panel and within minutes diagnosed the problem to a blown thermal cut-off fuse. I ordered a thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and had the parts at 7:30am Wednesday morning. Total time for diagnosing and repair was no more than 15 minutes. PartSelect saved me a ton of money and aggravation!!! AWESOME!!!!

Gary

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

I disassembled the dryer, replaced the pulley (which was noisy), and the belt.reassembled, only to find out that the drum would not turn freely. checked all my procedures and kept having the same problem. Finally after 3 frustrating hours, I took the back off and noticed that idler arm was tight against the motor shaft, because the too short belt didn't allow for the clearance needed. Had too take everything apart ,another hour, went and found one at our local repair shop, reinstalled everything , after another two hours runs fine. would appreciate a refund. And please check your part numbers in the future. Would hate to have someone else go through what i experienced.

Removed back panel of the dryer-reached my hand to the back of the motor shaft, put 7/16 wrench on it to hold the shaft while I removed the broken pulley with pliers. Very easy fix-the tech on Utube took the entire dryer apart totally unnecessary. If that is what the factory tells its tech"s to do its no wonder why the labor charge would be thru the roof.

Removed top and back covers. Placed new pulley and retaining clip in place. I had to remove a couple of drum supports to put belt on. Probably didn't have to remove top.

Unplug dryer from mains. Remove the back of the dryer. Thermal fuse is located on the left hand side near the bottom as you face the back of the dryer. Remove fuse and connect new fuse. Never repaired an appliance before and this was so easy!

Was not sure what was wrong but the Part Select site allowed us to view other repair issues and solutions. We ordered the kit, it arrived the next day (how is that possible) and easily put the parts in and chaching...money saved and dryer works better than ever. THANKS PartSelect, we give you an eleven and we will recommend you to everyone.

Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.

Just replaced the old lint filter.

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

Followed the video .... Also installed another part. which was a kit. the video here showed the third wire being installed. The video on repair clinic did not show where to attach the third wire (orange wire). The Kit and the Thermostat was installed with 25 mins. Thanks

Be very careful of burrs on the edges of the steel inside the dryer. I cut myself badly when reaching into unplug the switch.
Procedure: Lifted the dryer top by pulling forward and rotating front up. Removed 2 philips screws holding the switch at the door. Reached into dryer and unplugged bad switch. Inserting small blade screw driver at the edge helped release the plugs detent. Installed new switch using reverse of above.

had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller