1106607710 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Disconnect dryer.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the door actuator assemby.
replace broken spring.
Screw the the two screws back.

After watching the U Tube video to replace flywheel, I had a appliance repairman come to my home to install flywheel. There was no way I would have been able to put the dryer back together without some help.
I want to say "Thank You" to the sales representative who assisted me when purchasing my items, she was very patient while running around the house looking for the model number of the dryer.

This was rather easy to fix. I had never opened the dryer before but had a serviceman come out so I knew that you can pop the top of the dryer off by putting a flat edge screwdriver in between the top and bottom and popping up. You must remove the screws from the lint dryer before so the top comes off. The piece to replace had two screws and that was it. To get a repairmen from Sxxrs where we purchased it 15 years ago they charge a flat fee of $75 just to come out. That does not include the repair just a fee to come and tell you how much more it would cost to fix it. I ordered the part for less than $5 and $12 more for 2-3 day delivery! What a bargin! I was back drying clothes 15 minutes after the part arrived! Very happy that the part is still being made!

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example

Had to completely dismantle the dryer including the motor and grind off the.bolt holding the fan blade on. I did not realize it was threaded on with a left hand thread.Then reassembled.

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

I reviewed several videos on parts sites and YouTube. There is more than enough advice online showing step-by-step instructions. The only difficulty came with the rear nut holding the motor shaft to the blower fan. I used a crescent wrench with a long pipe over it for added torque. The two spring clips holding the motor in place can be removed and installed with the help of a nutdriver pushing the clip down, . The dryer was new enough so the motor needed no switch changes. The new motor is running fine.

removed two screws from lint screen raised top removed two nut screw from front disconnected lid wire lifted front up and off removed drum cleaned all dust out replaced pulley unit with new one (with a wheel) replaced tub held it up with a bungey cord put on new belt and reassembled unit tested out back in business

just replaced parys

Googled the symptoms the cure was replace the motor. There was a video done by parts select that made the process even easier. Had it done in about 25 minutes.

I take the screws out of the door, I removed the catch from behind inside the dryer door, I slid the new catch in the door and snapped it in place. After getting a new catch in the door I put the door back together and put the screws in. Easy repair

Turned off circuit breaker to machine. Removed lint trap to allow removal of two Philips screws from vent passage that hold lid on. Opened door and removed two Philips screws that hold switch to front of machine. Using flat blade #2 screw driver pushed on plastic locking tabs under front of machine top about 2" in from either side to allow top to be lifted up from machine. While holding up at 45 degree angle reached in and grabbed switch to pull it out for easy access. Set top down gently once switch was out. While holding switch removed broken switch actuator and installed new actuator on to switch. Lifted top back to 45 degree angle and with left hand held switch assembly in place and started two screws previously removed back into actuator holes. Tightened screws snugly. Lowered top back into plastic locking tabs and gently pushed down to secure top. Installed two screws back to air passage tube for lint trap through two holes in top that were removed at beginning of repair. Install lint trap, turn on circuit breaker and verified operation. Put wet clothes in tub, turned machine on, put away two screw drivers and kissed wife apologizing for taking so long to getting around to repairing machine.

Took 3 screws out used the putty knife to pry the door a part then used the pliers to remove the old door catch and then sapped the new one and put the door back together and I was was done in less than 10 min.

Incredibly simple! You just pop the other plastic catch out with a butter knife and pop the other on in. This is the second time I have done this over the last 4 years or so.