1106318801 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Followed previous comments and took 5 minutes to replace. Be careful to hold spring and switch together because easy to separate and drop. Two screws to remove for switch, two to remove for lint trap, pop the lid up and switch / spring is easy to access.

All I had to do was get the model number off of the dryer and plug that information in online and within a couple of days the part arrived. It was great! There were directions that came with the part that explained how to replace the old latch with the new one.

I remember in the "olden days" when I would of had to call a repair guy out and paid a lot more than the $12.00 I did to replace the part myself. And, the only reason it was $12.00 dollars instead of $5-6 was because I had it shipped overnight.

Awesome!

Removed old catch and strike with screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Installed new parts. My old catch did not have comparible numbers so I just used the yellow one. Worked fine.

We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire.
Now I have the old bulb for back up!!!
Thank you for having my replacement tube!!

It was so easy! I simply fit the gasket into the groove where the old one had been. Didn't even need any tools.

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

Replaced the cap over the door switch so when the door closed the switch was engaged

I used you-tube to troubleshoot and repair. Your part store was excellent to deal with. Delivery was prompt and cost was very reasonable. Thanks!

I googled the problem, then came across a site where somebody had experienced the same problem, and they changed the door catches to resolve it. I did a search for Whirlpool parts and found "partselect.com". I followed the instructions on the website and located the parts very easily and also discovered that there was a video on how to make this repair. We were tolerating this problem for quite some time and now the problem is resolved, thank you...

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

Turned off power and pulled power plug from the wall. Removed the two screws at the lint screen. Raised the top to by depressing the top spring clips. Removed the two 5/16" screws from front top. Removed wiring clips from front panel. Set the front aside while I removed the two broken panel clips. Installed the two new panel clips. reinstalled the front panel by placing the front panel above the sides. Opened the front panel door and supported the drum while allowing the front panel to slide down onto the new front panel clips. Reinstalled the wiring clip. reinstalled the two 5/16 screws. Turned the drum to ensure that the felt seals and drive belt weere installed properly. Lowered the top and reinstalled the two screws at lint screen. Reinstalled power plug and turned on power. No rattles or squeeks!!!

drilled a 7/16 diameter hole directly in the center of the two mounting holes filed it square big enough so as the spring tip fits thru now the door closes on the spring which actuates the switch looks and works perfect.

When I ordered the part, I viewed the installation video. That was a key step for me. It told me how to identify the correct part (there are multiple latch pieces in the repair kit, and one of them matches the type of door for the dryer), and how to disassemble the door to get the part installed. When the part came and I installed it, it turned out that I could snap the part in by hand, with no tools. It took about 5 seconds to try it, and it worked.

The dryer just stopped after a new load of clothes was put in. It appeared to be a power problem as there were not warnings, it just stopped. After checking the power, I suspected it was an electrical interlock problem. After nosing around, I traced the power to the dryer door interlock. Sure enough the switch was fine, but the mechanical lever was worn away. After Googling around for a replacement I found PartSelect.Com. Found the part, ordered it, and I am back in business. My wife is not happy though, as she wanted a new dryer:)