11060912990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Just replaced part

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

Cut power at breaker panel to Dryer.
Remove back cover of controls panel by removing six screws. Removed control knob and one screw from timer. Removed wires from bad timer (one at a time) and put them on new timer. Installed new timer in control panel and replaced the knob and screw on front. Then replaced panel on back of control panel. Cut power back on at breaker panel and tested unit for proper operation.

I took the timer knob off, then took the back off. I then took a picture of the so I would know how the wires would go back but I didn't need because the timer is labeled. I then took the timer out snapped wires off then replaced them on the new one and bolted it back it. It was very easy and took less than 15 min to do.

i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.

Opened access door, noticed main power wire to heating element was partially melted. This was caused by a bad connection to the drying element, loose. Removed heating element assembly. Cut bad section of wire and added new connection. While doing this the thermostats plastic casing cap came off ! Probably due to exessive heat / resistance from the bad connection. This confirmed why there was no heat. Intalled new thermostat and and am now good to go !

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

It's a electric dryer, I knew it was related with the thermal !

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

Ezee pezee lemon squeezee.