1106717401 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

simple repair, pop the dryer lid, remove the screw for the front of the door. install cable and spring and then reassemble.

The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.

This model top can be popped off after removing the two screws under the lint filter. Once exposed remove the old cables and feed them through the hole on the front panel. Feed the springs through the ends of the cables and hook the other end into the dryer side panel slots towards the top on each side. Once both cables are fed, feed the opposite ends of the cables into the slots in the dryer door (after popping the white plastic covers out of them first). Put the white covers back into the slots to hold cables into doors. The door catch kit install is pretty obvious.

Found the switch part on the floor and after I figured out where it came from it was minutes before it took to find the web site and order the part, I then watched the installation video which helped with a few pointers and days later it was installed and fixed for 10 dollars with shipping,AMAZING!!!

I looked up my paperwork on the dryer and found out how to remove the proper panel to get to the inside of the door. (I was able to find the manual on the internet also).

I cleaned all the dust while I was inside. The actual repair of the broken parts took about 5 minutes.

Parts received were exactly like the broken ones.

Thanks Parts Select. Saved me $139.00

John

remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse

Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

I followed the video. So easy..

The first step was to check the electrical supply to make sure I had power 120 volt. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas supply and turned the dryer around so I could have access to the back panel removed panel to access the wiring harness and safety thermostats. All switches and wire checked good with my ohmmeter .I pulled off the front kick panel and checked the electrical schematic and found the door switch was in the circuit to check it I had to lift up the top and pop out the front to access the door switch checked switch and found it defective. Replaced switch vacuumed out dryer and vent reassembled dryer and all worked good.

Ordered the motor with pulley and blower wheel in case the wheel did not come free from the motor.
Took out the lint screen, took off the top and disconnected the wires for the door switch, took off the front.
Remove the idler poi and the belt and then removed the drum.
I read in other repair YouTube videos, the blower wheel sometimes is so seized onto the motor axle that you have to remove the wheel by cutting it off.
Yes, ours seized!
Cut off the motor axle with a hacksaw and then the motor and the wheel were free. This was not an issue since I had purchased both the motor and the wheel which I recommend doing anyway. Our dryer over 25 years old and it does not have many electrical components, which I love. We removed the parts put in the new parts. Follow the wiring diagram to get the new motor hooked up.
Then I replaced the drum support rollers, which were a snap and then we put it all back together.
We added an extra step because we had to takeoff the back of the dryer to gain access to the blower. It turned out to be a good thing since years of lint have been trapped at the bottom of the lint chute.
I cleaned everything, washed everything and put it all back together and it purrs like a kitten.
Took us about 2 1/2 hours total since we are very cautious and slow as we didn’t want to break things.
I am very happy with the end result and hopefully it will last another 25 years!
Parts were spot on and worked perfectly.
Much more economical than buying a new dryer for $750-$1000.

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

Pull out the old lint filter unit; push in the new one.

I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.