11077974130 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!

NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.

First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to glue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

Initially we thought the problem was the igniter, so we ordered an igniter kit. Installed it but was unsuccessful. We then went on the websight and read further, about 50% of dryers with no heat but working had a problem with the thermal fuse.So we ordered the thermal fuse installed it, which was very easy, and success. Once the problem was diagnosed properly it was fast and easy. Recommend looking at the statistics for specific problem.

First and most important was to unplug the unit.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the lint screen shoot to the top cover and then simply popped the top of the machine open using 2 screw drivers and
gently prying it up. I raised the top cover about 8 inches and supported it with a block of wood.
I opened the front loading door and removed the 2 screws that hold the door actuator switch while holding the switch on the inside so that nothing would fall down into no mans land. Once the switch was loose I pulled it into view and could see that the actuator spring was broken. I used the search at the Part Select Web site and found the placement part very easy. I was amazed that the part was shipped and delivered to my house the very next day. The actuator spring simply snaps into place and I assembled it in the reverse order of removal, I removed the block of wood and snapped the top back into location and reinstalled the 2 screws for the lint screen shoot . I plugged the dryer in and it work perfect. I can't say enough about how well the experiance with Parts Select went, I will recommend them to others.

My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

installed the new dryer lint screen, it fit perfectly
and is now in operation.

PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might contact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.

I thought this repair would be a lot harder than it was. First I removed the top of the dryer ( removed two screws from the backside) then I removed the frontside of the dryer( i think two or four screws) just look along the edges to see where it's attached. Then I also removed the lower panel of the front of the dryer The one with clips to secure on the dryer. Removed the ground wire from panel. I removed the screws that holds on the lint vent and took that off. I easily took the drum out of the dryer and then placed it on the floor with the backside facing up. I then removed the damaged old felt strip (which had been glued on) I sanded a little to remove some of the residue. I checked the instructions to make sure I placed the new belt on correctly, and then glued it to the drum.(Note; the belt I received was too big about 3". I just cut it and sewn it together. It fit perfectly after that.) If this is a problem for you I don't think it has to be sewn because the glue you use to secure it holds tight and dries fast.
I also inspected and touched up the front felt seal with the glue.
After it dries about 10-15 min, I put the drum back in the dryer and then reattached the dryer vent and the front panel. I took a look at the instructions to set the back felt belt correctly. I turned the drum, gently pull the edge of the felt seal to the surface. After that I set the dryer belt up. This was bit tricky, I had to reach from the bottom panel area and after a few trys I got it . ( When setting the dryer belt, It works better if you push the spring arm with your hand instead of trying to use the belt to pull it toward the motor) Then I turn the drum a couple of times to make sure it was on good. then I put the bottom panel on and then the top back on and I was good to go. It works great now.

Found one of the two drum support rollers was badly worn. Found Partselect.com, found my parts in less then 2 mins. Figured that I was in there so I should just replace the belt so I got one of those also. Parts arrived in 3 days dryer as good as new in 20 mins.

So the first thing I did was search the web for the parts and came to this site. I knew the model and that I needed rollers and a rear seal. I found both on this site for order in less than 10 minutes, which included finding the wonderful diagrams and directions for replacing the parts. I placed the order got the parts two days later.

I printed out the directions to take the drum out and followed them. After unplugging the dryer, I pushed in the clips that were indicated to release the top and pushed that up. I then disconnected the door switch. I reached under the dryer (not having a kicker panel for some years...) and worked to release the belt. I then took the front off removing the four screws as described. The drum removal was a little more awkward than I had anticipated, but came out without major hassle. Getting the drive belt off was the worst part other than the size.

I then removed the warn rollers after taking the clips off with a pair of needle nose pliers. I put the new rollers on and secured them.

I then went to the drum.After cleaning it a bit, I attempted to dry fit the seal onto the drum to get the idea of how it would fit. This didn't work easily as the seal needed to stretch a bit more than it could while staying on all around. I grabbed a couple of clamps and worked it on using those. Once that was sorted I started to apply the glue. It was more runny than I had anticipated. After working that around the seal I let it dry overnight to an excellent bond.

The next day I put the drum back in, adjusted the seal properly and put the machine back together. The tension roller is not fixed to the machine so getting that back on was a little bit of a trick but was overcome easily enough.

A few loads of laundry later and I knew it was all done and working OK. It hasn't dried this good or been this quiet in years.

This was my first major appliance repair. With the assistance of the diagrams on here and directions I would say to anyone contemplating a diy repair on something like this to give it a shot.

My only recommendation to the site is to more visibly recommend doing the seals, rollers and drive belt at the same time. While in there I could see wear on the drive belt and will probably need to replace that in the next six months or so.

1. Shut off gas and disconnected dryer.
2. Opened cabinet. Easy sheet metal screws and fairly obvious how everything goes together. NB: You'll need a block (or a helper to hold things while you run to look for one) to hold the drum while removing the front.
3. The motor is connected with a single harness, so wiring is a snap.
4. Removing the blower wheel from the back was hard. I braced the motor shaft and turned with all the leverage I could muster, but it was stuck. Plan B: Recip saw to cut the shaft. Motor comes out one side and the fan comes out the other.
5. The fan, of course, was unusable because there was still a piece of motor shaft stuck in the thread. This is why I had to spring for a new wheel.
6. Put everything back together and receive wife's adoring praise...

I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

Did an Ohm test on the old Thermal Fuse found it to be bad. Replaced it with a new and the dryer is back to working great. Your suggestions saved approximatley $150.

Thanks for the help.